Advice on Installing Brick Lights

[rjdainty1]

Hello all,

I've recently begun building a retaining wall in my garden for a patio area, I decided to go for 6 brick lights along with other lighting for the area (not decided exactly what that will look like just yet). The brick lights I went for are these.

I've been having a read up on how best to wire these lights, I have a garage nearby and figured that the 6 x 4.6W lights shouldn't put too much strain on my garage. However wiring them up has got me wondering the best way to do this.

I've fitted lights, smart heating and some other basics around the house but don't have a massive amount of experience. I was hoping that I could find a solution that wouldn't involve me taking six individual runs of cable into the garage and joining them there, but most the solutions I've read about seem to suggest that many outdoor joining solutions will not last due to the elements.

A number of people have mentioned Wiska boxes filled with gel, which sounds great and about my price point but I'm not sure what to do for the best. I'm also a little unsure about the earthing. The garage is about 1m from one part of my wall although I might possibly send the cabling around the outside of the garden which would mean the cable would be a minimum of 10m long.

Do you think the Wiska box solution might be good enough, or should I perhaps just run all wiring into the garage? Or of course, if there's another solution I'd be happy to hear it.

Thanks
Rob

 

[mattg4321]

What test equipment do you have out of interest?

 

[rjdainty1]

Thanks for your comments again @pc1966 , a little disappointing to have bought and fitted the wrong item but all part of the learning process I guess.

So I can order these or the plastic ones that you’ve also mentioned, I’d have thought the metal would be better though - do you think the ones I’ve linked would be suitable? If so I’ll get them ordered along with some sealant and remove what I’ve installed before it rains

Oh and @mattg4321 , I don’t have any test kit as such, just wired to three pin plug to test. A bit of a ball ache wiring each in turn but at least it seemed safe and I was able to see each light working.

Thanks

 

[pc1966]

The ones you have are not waterproof in any way - the rubber covers are really only for dust/damp. So if they are outdoors you will get moisture passing in to the cable armour and in to the lights. If you can get and fit the outdoor ones it would be better than the plastic glands, but I would still apply some sealant to the gland-box interface as sadly outdoor glands do not come with any sort of seal there (I think the "SAW Storm glands" do but at higher price).

I think @mattg4321 concern is legitimate - that whatever you do it has to be safe. A professional electrician would do several 'dead' tests before powering it up and probably one 'live' test to make sure it is safe:

• Insulation resistance (so there is no sign of damaged insulation at 500V DC)
• Earth continuity (to be sure that the lights are effectively connected back to the supply)
• Overall loop fault impedance (to check the supply fuse/breaker will clear quickly enough)

Good workmanship should result in all being OK, but only testing establishes it really is!
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Also mentioned above is the building regulations / Part P stuff where any new circuit has to be tested and notified. If this is not something being added to your CU, say it is powered off a 13A plug (with 3A fuse, of course) that does not apply.

But basic safety still does, and it must be from an outlet that is RCD protected!

 

[rjdainty1]

Thanks @pc1966

So the ones I linked to in my last post were metal but also mention external and seem to have rubber seals, are you saying that you think these are okay if used with sealant (that was my plan).

Otherwise I can get the plastic ones you referenced in your previous post. I just figured the metal would be a bit more durable.

And thanks for the comments regarding safety - taken on board.

 

[pc1966]

So the ones I linked to in my last post were metal but also mention external and seem to have rubber seals, are you saying that you think these are okay if used with sealant (that was my plan).

An indoor gland has 2 metal parts, one that fits the box (with a nut inside) and the other that screw on to it clamping the armour wires.

The outdoor SWA glands have a 3rd part, it goes over the armour-clamp and has a sealing ring gripping the cable's outer sheath to keep water out of the armour.

However, the usual SWA glands are not really waterproof for submersion, etc, as they lack full sealing on the screw threads, and they do not have any sealing washer between the first part and the box. For the gland-to-box you can use silicone or similar that sets. For the screw thread part you can use some grease or Vaseline.

But if using normal engineering grease be aware it is an extreme pressure lubricant so it is easer to over-tighten as the compressive force for a given torque can be 2-3 times higher than dry metal.

The plastic ones are easier to get a good seal with, providing you do not need the higher strength and armour connection, but even they need some sealant between the gland and box as they are not perfect there (the plastic has some ability to compress to match the box surface, but it has to be quite a clean & neat fit to do so).

 

[rjdainty1]

Okay thanks for the explanation. I’ll go ahead with the plastic ones you linked, along with some sealant.

Thanks

 

[Markyd]

So how are you going to notify the work and complete a cert for it?......