appliance flex to t&e | Page 2 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss appliance flex to t&e in the Australia area at ElectriciansForums.net

A

adam.h

For integrated / fixed appliances, having a fused switch spur can you then run t&e to a ko box behind the appliance and connect the flex to t&e via a terminal block? covering with a blanking plate.
 
And I always thought the plug top law came in to cut down on the number of badly connected and wrongly fused plug tops fitted by joe public

For sure, hence why remove it, leaving the chance for a badly fitted plug-top/poorly wired installation to occur at a later date.

Don't agree that your method is cheaper, accessory costs I have looked at the FCU / FO are cheaper than your arrangement. Not all equipment is required to have plug tops fitted by law therefore adding the cost of a plug top and additional connection time increases the costs of your method. While you may feel it is poor design, without the full details of the installation and design reasoning it is difficult to say

Plug top integral with appliance - no cost to installer
Connection of DP switch - time same as FCU
Connection of socket - less time than flex-out as it is one set of connections instead of two.

Crabtree FCU - £3.06
Crabtree DP Switch - £2.52
MK Flex Out - £3.42
MK 1 Gang switched socket - £1.94

These are without looking very hard - 30% reduction in cost already.


Given the number of plugs and sockets in inaccessible places I have replaced due to overheating / burning over the years I think that hard wiring does have it's advantages and is a design plus. Given the reliability of appliances the gains / losses of each method are negligable and could be argued for a long time

Please explain how the flex-out will help the overheating?

Yooj
 
For sure, hence why remove it, leaving the chance for a badly fitted plug-top/poorly wired installation to occur at a later date.

As stated in my post not ALL appliances are required to have fitted plug tops


Plug top integral with appliance - no cost to installer
Connection of DP switch - time same as FCU
Connection of socket - less time than flex-out as it is one set of connections instead of two.

Your time saving may be a couple of minutes at most


Crabtree FCU - £3.06
Crabtree DP Switch - £2.52
MK Flex Out - £3.42
MK 1 Gang switched socket - £1.94

These are without looking very hard - 30% reduction in cost already.

Don't understand why you are using different manufacturers accessories unless it is for cost justification

Crabtree flex outlet £1.77 a 50% reduction on your MK unit


Please explain how the flex-out will help the overheating?

Being an experienced spark you are probably aware of the poor design of the 13A socket outlet with it's square pins so do I really need to explain
 
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As stated in my post not ALL appliances are required to have fitted plug tops

Your time saving may be a couple of minutes at most

It all adds up, especially over the lifetime of the installation


Don't understand why you are using different manufacturers accessories unless it is for cost justification

Crabtree flex outlet £1.77 a 50% reduction on your MK unit

Like I said it was a quick search...however, I can get a flex outlet for £1.10, but I can also get a socket for £0.70...therefore same saving.


Being an experienced spark you are probably aware of the poor design of the 13A socket outlet with it's square pins so do I really need to explain
Enlighten us as to how British Standards have got it so wrong for so long.

Yooj
 
It all adds up, especially over the lifetime of the installation

You seem to ignore
Originally Posted by UNG
As stated in my post not ALL appliances are required to have fitted plug tops

Like I said it was a quick search...however, I can get a flex outlet for £1.10, but I can also get a socket for £0.70...therefore same saving.

As you obviously chose to ignore parts of my previous post ( requoted above) if you include the cost of a plug top and termination you are not saving anything

Enlighten us as to how British Standards have got it so wrong for so long.

Yooj

You could start here
BS 1363 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A British standard only lays down the specification to which a product is manufactured or built not the quality
 
Can't see this mentioned yet.
Manufacturers of appliances fitted with moulded plug tops, generally state that removal of that plug will invalidate warranty.
What they actually mean is that their service guys are not qualified sparks.
Whilst they are, most likely, able to deal with a FCU- it kicks up all sorts of issues about liability, insurance etc.
Then follows the classic- " My boiler was OK till he touched the electrics"

The above from 1st hand in-house experience of 3 major UK[ish] manufacturers.
Tony
 
I have recently been asked to have everything in a kitchin supplied by fcu's by the kitchen fitters. All the appliences come less plugs and is, as he said, ideal as most of the time they have had a fault it's a fuse, which was accessable and saved removing the fixed appliance just to get behind it.

At the end of the day both have their merits and downfalls. I've gone for fcu's as it suits both the customer and the kitchen guys. Makes no difference to me really so everyone is happy.
 
Manufacturers of appliances fitted with moulded plug tops, generally state that removal of that plug will invalidate warranty.
What they actually mean is that their service guys are not qualified sparks.

I don't see how a manufacturer could invalidate a warranty because a plug top had been removed

Does that mean a damaged plug top would have to be replaced by the manufacturer
 
sure i read somewhere that using a plug top near its 13amp rating is not recommended due to the system relying on a spring loaded contact which if not firm can lead to overheating.
hands up who's see the results of a plug top on the old twin outlet economy 7 emmersion heater jobbie, scary.

when doin kitchens if you put a socket outlet behind were the appliance goes it woun't push in far enough.
if you fit it in the nearest cupboard you have to drill a big hole to pass the plug thru if its the prewired sealed unit type.
or you can fit a surface box/ flex outlet and have rear entry :eek:nice and tidy
i preffer the last option with FSU control/fuse swap at worktop height.
had a faulty brand new built in freezer unit fail the other day ,call out guy came and removed it from the flex outlet plate no prob & fitted a new one.
had to cut the preformed plug off ,not an issue for this guy.


elfyn
 
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