Chaps dare I mention using wagos in the cu ?

Nothing electrically wrong with using the normal Wago connectors in a CU, ....But they sure ain't going to look like a professional job. Crimp connectors, especially the heat shrink insulated type, are far more suitable for use in CU's.
 
Nothing electrically wrong with using the normal Wago connectors in a CU, ....But they sure ain't going to look like a professional job. Crimp connectors, especially the heat shrink insulated type, are far more suitable for use in CU's.

I've used those, but I much prefer solder & heat shrink.

Maybe I'm just old fashioned. :wheelchair:
 
but are your hands still steady enough to solder cables. mine are OK after about 4 pints.
 
but are your hands still steady enough to solder cables. mine are OK after about 4 pints.

Wheyayaman ..... I just wrap them together with a bit of fusewire to keep them steady, drink a couple o' bottles o' Broon To keep me steady, then solder them.

Champion man !!!! :8::8:
 
I've used those, but I much prefer solder & heat shrink.

Maybe I'm just old fashioned.
wheelchair.gif


Not sure how many electricians these day's, would even have the inclination for solder jointing. But Yes, this type of CU joint would be even neater than a crimped joint as well as being classified as permanent joint!!
 
Not sure how many electricians these day's, would even have the inclination for solder jointing. But Yes, this type of CU joint would be even neater than a crimped joint as well as being classified as permanent joint!!

Well it's the way me Dad taught me. He wasn't a spark as such - he was a Time Served Fitter & Turner, but was called-up during the war & joined REME, so maybe that's where he learned it. He didn't use heat shrink though, just that cloth tape that was soaked in tarry stuff that sparkies used to use.
 
problem with soldering in a plastic CU is that the blowlamp will probably melt the plastic.
 
problem with soldering in a plastic CU is that the blowlamp will probably melt the plastic.

Aye ... and if it's Durhamspark on the other end of the blowlamp the whole hoose gans up in flames. ;)

But me, I'm very delicate - I kid you not; I can solder a fitting onto a 15mm pipe right next to a skirting board & not scorch the paint.
 
Aye ... and if it's Durhamspark on the other end of the blowlamp the whole hoose gans up in flames. ;)

But me, I'm very delicate - I kid you not; I can solder a fitting onto a 15mm pipe right next to a skirting board & not scorch the paint.

About that carpet Geordie , when are you...............................................
 
Just to reiterate what Beaver74 inferred. If you can get an adaptable box above the CU, then why not move the CU upwards ? That should give you the cable length required. Although, i suspect, There is a perfectly valid reason why it cannot be moved....


Or a length of maxi trunking say 100X50,above the board and the same width as the board, and do all the thro crimping in there

IMG_0719 copy.JPG
 
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Whilst on the subject of what is and isnt allowed in a distribution board, can anyone tell me why "they" dont allow you to use cable ties in boards anymore??? apparently so im told, i always used to tie my cables into bunchs when making off 3ph boards but apparently this is unaccetable now, anyone know why???

View attachment 14424
 
maybe it's because you are bunching the cables tightly together and thus reducing the CCC. also, if 1 cable were to overheat due to a fault, then the heat will be detrimental to other cables in the loom.
 
Whilst on the subject of what is and isnt allowed in a distribution board, can anyone tell me why "they" dont allow you to use cable ties in boards anymore??? apparently so im told, i always used to tie my cables into bunchs when making off 3ph boards but apparently this is unaccetable now, anyone know why???

View attachment 14424

Who are "They".

It may just be a Customer spec you have to comply with.

As above it must alter the CCC, but there are Billions of tie wrapped cables around.
 
I also use push fit wagos to extend cables inside consumer units - I prefer them as you can see the cable is correctly seated inside the wago- you can't see inside a normal crimp
 
I also use push fit wagos to extend cables inside consumer units - I prefer them as you can see the cable is correctly seated inside the wago- you can't see inside a normal crimp

Nothing against wago's being used as connectors in a CU, just that it doesn't look very professional to see a load of connectors in the CU enclosure when the cover is removed.... I dont really like to see the PVC insulated in-line crimps either, i prefer the heat shrink insulated crimps, (or the plain in-line crimps with colour mached heat shrink tube) where the heat shrink insulation moulds around the joint much more uniformally....
 
Talking about soldering earlier..... isn't there a danger that for those less experienced who were never taught to solder properly that you end up with a dry jointed connection, or, if they don't understand about the different methods then you can get issues with low-temperature solder joints melting under fault conditions?

My preference is crimping, and I've often done exactly as per Jase's picture, although the odd Wago buried in a corner of a domestic box isn't that big a deal. I'm finding it harder and harder to make domestic boxes neat and tidy these days just due to the amount of circuits, especially on new builds.
 
Talking about soldering earlier..... isn't there a danger that for those less experienced who were never taught to solder properly that you end up with a dry jointed connection, or, if they don't understand about the different methods then you can get issues with low-temperature solder joints melting under fault conditions?

My preference is crimping, and I've often done exactly as per Jase's picture, although the odd Wago buried in a corner of a domestic box isn't that big a deal. I'm finding it harder and harder to make domestic boxes neat and tidy these days just due to the amount of circuits, especially on new builds.

Another reason why you wont find many of the newer electricians using solder joints, ...They have never been taught to solder, ...properly or otherwise!! Even those that have, would consider it too much of a hassle these days!! ...lol!!
 
It's because it IS too much hassle!! By the time I've gotten the iron out the van, messed about, burnt my fingers as you can't access it properly.... will have done a dozen crimp and shrinks at least!
 
It's because it IS too much hassle!! By the time I've gotten the iron out the van, messed about, burnt my fingers as you can't access it properly.... will have done a dozen crimp and shrinks at least!

Exactly!! lol!!!
 
I was always taught that the solder is only to provide the electrical continuity and the cables should be mechanically connected securely beforehand.
 
I was always taught that the solder is only to provide the electrical continuity and the cables should be mechanically connected securely beforehand.

The mechanical security is provided by interlacing of the two stranded cables, or the tight in-line twisting of solid cores, prior to the actual soldering. In good soldered joint, the solder itself will add a degree of mechanical security to the joint too...
 
I was always taught that the solder is only to provide the electrical continuity and the cables should be mechanically connected securely beforehand.

An awful lot of MV cable joints are going to blow up then.
Until the introduction of resin filled joints and mechanical clamps the cores would be put in to weak-back ferules and sweated solid. The ferule was there mainly to add form to the joint. Terminations would use cast brass lugs, no chance of crimping them.
In both cases the solder gave the mechanical strength and electrical continuity.
 
Still like and adaptable box and din rail wagos when a board requires relocating even if just lowering which i some times use single compartment dado trunking off cuts which do look neat and wago's in boards if one or 2 , i will now only crimp stranded cables as i have had a few come appart even with the proper ratchet crimps and the fact that if you read the manufacturers instructions they state only for use with stranded cables , i have spliced and soldered joints in the past but its wago for me
 
soldering solid cable, like this metric crap T/E we're forced to work with, strip 1/2" off each end, lay the 2 ends alonside each other. wrap with a bit of 15A fuse wire, solder. job done. then take it all apart as you've forgotten to slip the heatshrink on first.
 
or wrap round with the 1mm cpc or what ever size the cpc of the cable is ill see if i can do one and post pics for a demo
 
soldering solid cable, like this metric crap T/E we're forced to work with, strip 1/2" off each end, lay the 2 ends alonside each other. wrap with a bit of 15A fuse wire, solder. job done. then take it all apart as you've forgotten to slip the heatshrink on first.

That's the way I do it :smug2: ............. including forgetting the heat shrink !! :32:
 
Honest answers now...when was the last time any of you 'Senior' chaps made a solder joint?
 
fixed my daughter headphones last week , ive always got my soldering iron out fixing some thing , an old kewood chef mixer last week
 

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Argument need settling regarding CU Swop
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