battery drain help needed

[Geezer63]

I have a 2004 Peugeot Boxer van, converted professionally in 2014 to a very high standard by the previous owner. I have a major issue with battery drain. The battery power decreases over about 3/4 days to a point where there is not enough charge to turn over the engine. So far, I have replaced the battery, identified 2 circuits that are causing excessive power drain and removed the fuses, tested the alternator diodes and as a precaution I disconnected the alternator cable for 2 days, but none of these have solved the problem. If I disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, it holds it’s charge at around 13.3 volts. I am at my wits end, any help would be appreciated. Cheers.

 

[KEV 1 N]

Just a shot in the dark here, our firm has a Peugeot bipper van 2015, with similar symptoms to what you describe. I’ve not driven the van but the lad said the glow plug light had been on for while, then on a Monday morning (not used on weekends) the van was completely flat and wouldn’t start (being a company van things are ignored until it breaks down!) the AA came out and changed the battery, but it went flat again, any way it turned out there was a recall on faulty glow plug relay units, so it went to Peugeot to be sorted.
It might help you, it might not. Maybe worth a look

 

[Geezer63]

Thanks for that, I’ll have a look

 

[ruston]

Yes , it might be interesting to clamp the battery when the engine is running also.
What was the nature of the conversion

 

[Geezer63]

Yes , it might be interesting to clamp the battery when the engine is running also.
What was the nature of the conversion

Camper van conversion. What do you mean by clamp the battery?

 

[ruston]

Put a clamp meter on the battery terminal to see what the the battery is drawing before starting . Turn the ignition on and note the high reading with the plugs activated, this should drop back as the plugs switch off .
They may have a cold run on depending on the design , but if they are not cutting off , and you are just doing short runs you may not have enough reserve battery power to start the vehicle as it will be drawing a low current to feed the ecu if it is standing for awhile. It is not much but it could be enough to take it below it's threshold.
As it is a camper van have you checked that any of the accessories are drawing current while it is standing?

 

[Kevy]

If it’s a camper van conversion then there’ll be an auxiliary battery and a split-charge relay. This may also be a culprit

'Clamp the battery' is a reference to putting a DC clamp meter around one of the battery leads to monitor the current draw

 

[Geezer63]

Ok, great info there.
I presume a multi-meter can do the same job as a clamp meter? The symptoms would seem to point towards parasitic drain, or faulty alternator diodes, but I have eliminated both of those. There are two faulty circuits, but I have removed those fuses and it still loses charge. The issue with the glow plugs is a possibility, the battery drains with the van standing over a few days, and I have also tried isolating the leisure battery using the isolator switch. The relay is pretty new, but it could be faulty. Is there a way to test it?

 

[ruston]

A multimeter usually only has a 10a facility , more with a shunt depending on the meter. It also has to be connected in series.
A good clamp meter will accurately show you what the starting amps are , the recovery charging amps and then the 'rest'amps,when the starting load has recovered.
How did you check for draw , and what draw did you get .
Was there anything fitted to the vehicle that would maybe require a higher amp hour battery?

 

[ruston]

You also have to take note that your alternator is now charging two batteries.
Have a read of this.
Split Charging Guide - caravans, campervans, motorhomes, boats, vehicles - https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/split-charging.html

 

[Geezer63]

Apart from the camper accessories, which are powered either by mains or the leisure battery, the only additions to the electrics are a reversing camera and a professionally fitted tow bar. I checked for parasitic draw using the prescribed method, and after identifying two circuits with excessive draw, I removed the fuses. I will do further investigation into those when I have sorted out the charging problem. The remaining draw is within the recommended limits, I can’t remember the exact figures, that was over a month ago.

 

[ruston]

Does it just get short runs then parked up for extended periods?
Is the battery flat when you try to start it , or does it crank but not start .
The Ecu has a minimum and maximum voltage , if not met or exceeded will not operate.

 

[Kevy]

Have you added any accessories recently?
When did this issue start and were there any modifications just before?
Does it have an alarm/immobiliser fitted?
Anything left plugged in the cigarillo lighter?
Any audio amplifiers installed which aren’t turning off?
Is there a courtesy light hidden behind a panel or in a cupboard?
Are all the courtesy lights switching off (including the glovebox) when the doors are closed?

 

[Geezer63]

All the above in your last post have been checked, previously had an alarm which is now disconnected, no other accessories added, apart from the tow bar. It has always had a charging issue, but it seems to be getting worse. It could possibly be the tow bar electrics, now you mention it, I will check them out. The battery gets very low after 3/4 days, the engine will turn slowly but not enough to start it. If I plug the mains hook up in, and the built in charger, it starts straight away. I haven’t been taking it on the road much at all due to the possibility of getting stranded.

 

[ruston]

Did it have the problem before the tow bar , and did they fit the split charging relay?
If it is standing a long time any battery will eventually drop below its threshold level , particularly if it is not fully charged anyway .
Fit an auto trickle charger if it is standing long periods.