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S

still learning.

hi, when the cable has been crimped together using insulated crimps do you still have to put heat shrink over the cable. if yes do you have to do all cables individually (cpc, line, neutral) or one heat shrink tube over all together.

cheers
 
Hi
Quote;
"Regulation 526.3 (iv) advises the use of a compression tool ie crimper, but does not mention any use of a protective heat shrink required."

This is correct, what about the IR of the circuit

Unless there is chance that moisture will get in the crimp then very little will happen to the IR. If this is a repair say of a damaged cable and is to be buried then it comes under 526.3 and no mention of heat shrink is used. If you feel moisture will be a problem then you need to to use perhaps method (ii).

Sensibly you would use the compression method and heat shrink it. But if you were extending talis in a CU change you don't by the regs need heat shrink. I still though would hear shrink if for mechanical protection
 
i think most of the guys on about shrinking the cable, are talking about extending/repairing a cable that has no additional protection I.E not inside a JB, backbox ect. If the cable is within a backbox/jb thenj i would'nt bother with the shrink, as it covers the crimp, and during an inspection, you cant verify the soundess of the connectuion, and tell whether the right crimper was used.
 
I find that the insulation on the crimps do get damaged. they are just a cheap set I got with a load of crimps. Is there a crimper that can do the job perfectly first time everytime? If so is there a link? This has been another really useful thread. Thanks
 
ratchet crimper for 1.5mm, 2.5mm, and 6mm from wholesaler various makes includeSWA. about ÂŁ12-ÂŁ15. all joints, if not in an enclosure should be sleeved to reinstate double insulation.
 
having used wago's i think crimps will become some thing in the past

I'm glad someone said that! I've read all of these posts and I'm wondering why people bother with crimping now....it's soooooo slow to do andcutting the cable to length is critical and then all of that sleeving. Wagos are the dog's....wouldn't use anything else now.

Er....except for flex. :-D
 
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I'm glad someone said that! I've read all of these posts and I'm wondering why people bother with crimping now....it's soooooo slow to do andcutting the cable to length is critical and then all of that sleeving. Wagos are the dog's....wouldn't use anything else now.

Er....except for flex. :-D

And if your repairing a cable that is burried in a wall
 
I work on new and existing control panels all the time and find sleeving crimped cables isnt often done with exception of supply cables which are sleeved or taped due to uninsulated crimping, if a crimp is correctly done their wont be stray strands and considering the exposed crimp end is only mm away anyway i dont even consider it good practice to do so but more time consuming, its not too bad on the odd cable but applying this method to 200+ crimps in a control panel will rocket the cost in labour alone thus loosing the competitive edge, so my answer is NO its not neccessary nor is it required by reg's if you use a decent set of ratchet crimps and do a neat crimp then their wont be stray wire and the plastic skirt if correctly sized to wire will fit snuggly over insulation.
If the joint is to be buried though within say plaster or other media then it will require a water tight seal and the double insulation value restoring and this then requires either heat shrink sleeving or amalgamating tape to ensure conformaty.
 
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