Cable routing inside a consumer unit

[Andy Hames]

Hi

First post and I'm a DIY-er so apologies if this is the wrong forum to start with.

I have a project at the moment that involves replacing a consumer unit. I've arranged for a proper inspection and certification down the line but in the mean time I have made a start on getting the circuits wired in where I can.

This is where I'm up to so far:

and this shows better how the wiring is routed:

I know some of the sheathing on the incoming cables is probably a bit long, but they may move so I've kept a bit of excess. Likewise the neutral and earths are looped as shown to maintain some excess.

The question I have is, is there anything particularly wrong with that routing?

I wasn't sure if it was best for the cables coming from the top to drop straight down and the ones from the bottom to go straight up, or if they should be routed along the bottom and up the sides, e.g. the single one there at the moment, would the earth be better going all the way to the left along the bottom and then up the left hand side, and the live and neutral the same but to the right?

Oh, last thing - this is the bigger picture:

I've added an isolator, looking at it now I think the meter tails should probably be shortened a bit, or at least clipped out the way.

Any advice guys, or anything else that stands out that needs resolving?

Thanks...

 

[MJPD29]

Although it appears neat, there are a lot of mistakes would need rectified to meet regulation.

 

[mainline]

Is the 32 amp 2.5mm radial feeding a socket or sockets ?

 

[Andy Hames]

It's highly dangerous to have a coil of live cable on the floor with bare ends. Final circuits shouldn't be connected up until they are complete and tested.

Also, the other B32 MCB on the left shouldn't have a single 2.5 sq mm cable either as it isn't rated to carry 32 amps. (as mentioned higher up)

No, that's not the same cable. There are 2 cables coming up through the floor. The coiled cable on the floor is the start of a separate ring and is not connected up or in any way live.

Taken on board the point about the 32A MCB, I was already intending to replace it with the spare 16A.

 

[westward10]

Are you rewiring this property.

 

[mainline]

The first thing to do is to switch off those mcbs one at a time, then turn off the CU main switch followed by the isolator.
Then check the main fuse rating if above 63 amp, disconnect the entire CU and take it back to screw fix.

 

[davesparks]

The first thing to do is to switch off those mcbs one at a time, then turn off the CU main switch followed by the isolator.
Then check the main fuse rating if above 63 amp, disconnect the entire CU and take it back to screw fix.

I'd say the only thing to do is get an electrician in.

 

[timhoward]

@Andy Hames the board itself isn't bad at all in terms of neatness, but that isn't the be all and end all - there are a few things that you couldn't hope to know unless you've spent time studying the wiring regs.
There's a general principle that things are tested before they are energised, for good reasons.
I'd try and get a sparks on board to test what is there, and advise you on steps to finish this in a compliant way. There are people out there that don't mind DIY'ers doing the first fix.
Sorry I jumped to the wrong conclusion regarding that coil of wire. I was concerned for your safety.

 

[mainline]

I'd say the only thing to do is get an electrician in.

Get the money back first to repay the client

 

[Andy Hames]

Although it appears neat, there are a lot of mistakes would need rectified to meet regulation.

I don't doubt that, I do have a qualified electrician coming to do an inspection

I expect the 2.5 radial is still looping around the house live until it returns to the CU to complete the ring.

Is the 32 amp 2.5mm radial feeding a socket or sockets ?

It currently feeds one socket, it won't be extended until the other side is completed.

 

[mainline]

It currently feeds one socket, it won't be extended until the other side is completed.

It's fine on a 32 if only feeding one socket

 

[westward10]

So are you rewiring this property.

 

[mainline]

@davesparks you don't agree Dave ? why not

 

[Andy Hames]

@Andy Hames the board itself isn't bad at all in terms of neatness, but that isn't the be all and end all - there are a few things that you couldn't hope to know unless you've spent time studying the wiring regs.
There's a general principle that things are tested before they are energised, for good reasons.
I'd try and get a sparks on board to test what is there, and advise you on steps to finish this in a compliant way. There are people out there that don't mind DIY'ers doing the first fix.
Sorry I jumped to the wrong conclusion regarding that coil of wire. I was concerned for your safety.

No, no problem at all.

I do have a qualified electrician coming to check and advise and eventually do the EICR and certification, etc.

I'm fully aware there's a whole lot I don't know, but I have tried to learn and I've done some testing as best I can, for example the connected ring and the cooker radial I continuity and resistance tested each conductor as well as making sure there was no continuity between them before ever connecting them (as well as testing earth continuity between the cooker chassis and main earth).

I fully expected a fairly robust response but I'd rather ask than just carry on without doing so.

 

[westward10]

So are you being paid to rewire this property.

 

[DPG]

No, no problem at all.

I do have a qualified electrician coming to check and advise and eventually do the EICR and certification, etc.

I'm fully aware there's a whole lot I don't know, but I have tried to learn and I've done some testing as best I can, for example the connected ring and the cooker radial I continuity and resistance tested each conductor as well as making sure there was no continuity between them before ever connecting them (as well as testing earth continuity between the cooker chassis and main earth).

I fully expected a fairly robust response but I'd rather ask than just carry on without doing so.

It's not an EICR that needs completing.

You really didn't ought to be doing this work, especially if it is for someone else.

You need a calibrated MFT and the ability to use it and understand the results that it gives. You also need an understanding of the wiring regs and how to apply them

I'm all for competent DIY stuff, but this is beyond that.