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What really annoys me is when they have used a spirit level when following the architectural line would have looked far neater

Yeah, we do that, no matter if the other services or tiles or brickwork is straight or not we always install using either a liquid level or a laser level. The reason is that if there's ever a complaint we don't need to go back and reinstall at our expense as long as we can prove it's level. Once in a while we get requested to follow existing lines but we'll always get the request in writing before we do. There's been several occasions where we've had snags stating our installation isn't straight compared to brick lines/door frames/other services but there's no claim for remedy if it's level.
 
Yeah, we do that, no matter if the other services or tiles or brickwork is straight or not we always install using either a liquid level or a laser level. The reason is that if there's ever a complaint we don't need to go back and reinstall at our expense as long as we can prove it's level. Once in a while we get requested to follow existing lines but we'll always get the request in writing before we do. There's been several occasions where we've had snags stating our installation isn't straight compared to brick lines/door frames/other services but there's no claim for remedy if it's level.

I suppose it all comes down to how you want others to see your workmanship I always follow the building / architectural line unless instructed otherwise as even though your work is levelled using level people will always believe the building is level and somebody has been using a level with a wonky bubble
 
Isn't there a regulation somewhere about clipping distances ? :vanish:
I believe there's a table in the onsite guide. Something like 30cm horizontally, 40cm vertically, or a hammer handle :smartass:

I was also taught to install everything level "because then they can't say anything". Personally I would take the architectural lines into consideration, on a case by case basis, but again I wouldn't like to be called back to do it all again because the client disagreed.
 
I believe there's a table in the onsite guide. Something like 30cm horizontally, 40cm vertically, or a hammer handle :smartass:

I was also taught to install everything level "because then they can't say anything". Personally I would take the architectural lines into consideration, on a case by case basis, but again I wouldn't like to be called back to do it all again because the client disagreed.

Aye ..... that's a Metric foot.
 
I would also never alter between 0.3-0.4 when the direction changes, I tend to cleat everything at 300 regardless as it looks more aesthetically pleasing.

I would normally put everything in plumb and level, like has been said if you do then there can be no recourse to make you change it.

I do agree with UNG tho sometimes you really do need to follow a existing line but in those circumstances I'd get client approval first .
 

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