Can anyone help with my bathroom light pull chord switch?

[Avo Mk8]

Like I said in original post I did my P16th papers (20 odd years ago like) so not up to date but yes replacing 2 core to 3 core no problem but I’ve no issues not using the light switch on the wall and just the pull cord.

When I was testing the wires one the earths was showing live and someone comments don’t trust pen testers!

I’m able to do whatever I just don’t know where to put which wires - one of the earths is scorched so maybe that’s the live one!

I said don't trust pen testers, but ironically in this instance it was telling you the live earth wire was live!
It needs to be established if there is a permanent live at the pull cord that is not coming from the wall switch.

 

[Avo Mk8]

The red and earth is showing live on my pen tester but I don’t know how to test how much current on the earth wire like I say it shows minimal on the multi meter

It's not obvious to me where live is coming from!
Why are the blue and black wires connected together by the choc block? Were they together like that in the old pull cord?
Or did you put them together because that seems right colour wise?
The reason I ask is that I can't make sense of this wiring yet!

 

[davesparks]

I think it's time to suggest you call an electrician, you have some dangerous wiring there that needs sorting out.
Exposed connector blocks and the earth core of a T&E cable connected to live are not, and have never been, acceptable.

 

[Bgy333]

It's not obvious to me where live is coming from!
Why are the blue and black wires connected together by the choc block? Were they together like that in the old pull cord?
Or did you put them together because that seems right colour wise?
The reason I ask is that I can't make sense of this wiring yet!

I copied the old wiring i believe- they were always like that it’s possible- seems probable that I’ve done it wrong, maybe the red and brown should have gone one side of the pull cord switch and the live earth the other? That’s the only way 2 lives would connect on the switch ?

 

[brianmoooore]

I think it's time to suggest you call an electrician, you have some dangerous wiring there that needs sorting out.
Exposed connector blocks and the earth core of a T&E cable connected to live are not, and have never been, acceptable.

This!

 

[Avo Mk8]

I copied the old wiring i believe- they were always like that it’s possible- seems probable that I’ve done it wrong, maybe the red and brown should have gone one side of the pull cord switch and the live earth the other? That’s the only way 2 lives would connect on the switch ?

Let me have a think about this. I'm off for a few hours. I'll get back to you.
Are you able to check, safely, what if anything is live?

 

[Bgy333]

Like said I did my P16th edition papers 2007 so checking live wires besides feeling it they’re warm lol isn’t a problem I’ve got the two multi meter shown and the pen tester

 

[Avo Mk8]

I don't think it is possible to determine remotely exactly how your circuit was wired just from the photo's.
The original configuration might have been something like that shown below. That is just illustrative - I don't know which terminal is which on the wall switch.
And as has been said, the use of the bare earth wire as a live connection is unacceptable, and has caused you difficulties in trying to replace the switch.
Your experience previously as an electrician ought to allow you to work out how to correctly connect what you have.

However, the fact that you see a deflection on the needle of your multimeter, set to ohms range, when checking between L and N on the old cable between the lights (otherwise disconnected) leads me to join others here who have recommended getting an electrician in.

This forum is not supposed to give step by step guidance. I think I've gone as far as I possibly can to try and help, so it's over to you now to do the responsible thing and get this wired properly and made safe.

 

[Bgy333]

I don't think it is possible to determine remotely exactly how your circuit was wired just from the photo's.
The original configuration might have been something like that shown below. That is just illustrative - I don't know which terminal is which on the wall switch.
And as has been said, the use of the bare earth wire as a live connection is unacceptable, and has caused you difficulties in trying to replace the switch.
Your experience previously as an electrician ought to allow you to work out how to correctly connect what you have.

However, the fact that you see a deflection on the needle of your multimeter, set to ohms range, when checking between L and N on the old cable between the lights (otherwise disconnected) leads me to join others here who have recommended getting an electrician in.

This forum is not supposed to give step by step guidance. I think I've gone as far as I possibly can to try and help, so it's over to you now to do the responsible thing and get this wired properly and made safe.

View attachment 102624

You’ve been fantastic and don’t worry I know that sometimes the saying no good deed comes into play and I’ve had it myself tbh “well you told me……..” etc etc

See o fitted the bathroom and as part of it fitted new lights. So it was working fine, I never used the switch on the wall ever.

So thinking back I believe I bought a new silver plastic pull cord switch for the bathroom , and then it never worked since .

I would’ve thought that sleeved green / yellow going into com1 etc on the switch as wrong and connecting them together as normal, dismissing the original photo I had and then had this issue since

 

[UNG]

Looking through all the pictures and posts if the switch outside the bathroom is not needed then just lose the brown / blue T&E at the pull switch and it then looks like you are left with a live, switch live and an earth from the light fitting position in the remaining T&E

 

[Avo Mk8]

Looking through all the pictures and posts if the switch outside the bathroom is not needed then just lose the brown / blue T&E at the pull switch and it then looks like you are left with a live, switch live and an earth from the light fitting position in the remaining T&E

Agreed. My reservation was the apparent (post #20) 4Kohm resistance between red & black in the (disconnected) run between the lights. Could be lots of things, including me misunderstanding what is said, but really an IR test would be prudent before connecting it all back up!