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Tonykakz

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Hi my father has just had a gas cooker installed. A free standing gas oven , gas grill and gas hob. The manufactures say that the ignition for the gas must be a 13amp plug. Is this correct? 13 amp for ignition seems to high . Can i down size the to 3amp and hardwire into 3amp fused spur. I have added a diagram of existing design . Does this design also permit me to add a sicket to then cooker control unit?
 

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several ways.
1. you could feed the ignition off the fan FCU. a 5A fuse would be appropriate. and handle both.
2. Fit a socket on the outgoing side of the cooker connection unit.
3. Fit a second FCU just for the ignition.
 
The advantage of using a socket rather than a FCU is if the appliance goes faulty and needs replacing it's that bit easier.
 
Re the fuse size, that is 'boiler plate' text that probably doesn't have any special significance to the ignition. Manufacturers simply state to replace with an identical fuse because then the text is the same for all appliances. Why is it 13A in the first place? The moulded plug cordsets they buy are probably fitted with 13A, it's safe because the ignition circuit is fused internally and the conductors are 0.75mm², therefore they don't need to think about it any further.
 
Re the fuse size, that is 'boiler plate' text that probably doesn't have any special significance to the ignition. Manufacturers simply state to replace with an identical fuse because then the text is the same for all appliances. Why is it 13A in the first place? The moulded plug cordsets they buy are probably fitted with 13A, it's safe because the ignition circuit is fused internally and the conductors are 0.75mm², therefore they don't need to think about it any further.
So can you still downsize the fuse and hardwire ignition or stick to manufacturers instructions 13amo fuse and plug.
 

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