clever ways of ring final test without removing spur fronts?? | Page 2 | on ElectriciansForums

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To be honest it’s not a great hardship to continue what I’m doing but like I say I’m always looking for ways to be more productive so I thought someone may have thought of an intuitive way to overcome it
 
Actually now I think about it the screw will have a connection to Earth regardless of the metal back box, so your way may be plausible, providing there is a good connection to the line conductor via the fuse carrier. I’ll give it a go tomorrow and see what it comes back with. It may be a slightly higher r1+r2 reading but one thing it will confirm is correct polarity. Top marks for that man!

I always use an exposed conductive part to gain a Zs reading. It proves the exposed metal work is earthed and also provided the highest value Zs likely to be present on the circuit.
 
If you have been told to only test the sockets then I am baffled why you are not happy to do this? Just make a note on the certificate that you have only tested the sockets ,or have I misunderstood?
Electrician is a professional job so you have to take responsibility for doing things right sometimes. You answer to professional responsibility as well as the customer
 
Electrician is a professional job so you have to take responsibility for doing things right sometimes. You answer to professional responsibility as well as the customer
You have to do things right at all times not just sometimes. You are only responsible for what you have agreed with the client and you just need to record this on the certification that you give to the client. If you want to perform tests that you haven't been asked to do then you are free to do so but you won't get paid for it.
 
You have to do things right at all times not just sometimes. You are only responsible for what you have agreed with the client and you just need to record this on the certification that you give to the client. If you want to perform tests that you haven't been asked to do then you are free to do so but you won't get paid for it.

For a periodic I totally agree but not for an initial verification. If you explain to the customer why they need it then youll get paid. Plus sometimes you have to do things you won’t get paid for, for your own piece of mind.
 
An initial verification has to be carried out in full, in the correct order at all times in my opinion. A periodic you have a lot more flexibility due to the fact that 9 times out of 10 you’ll have various circuits that can’t be turned off and therefore certain tests your unable to carry out. But like I say, with an initial I always try to carry out a complete test in the order stated.
 
My point of view exactly John. If we don’t do things responsibly and properly, people die.
If there was a fault on a different part of the installation the blame would be on the client who
You have to do things right at all times not just sometimes. You are only responsible for what you have agreed with the client and you just need to record this on the certification that you give to the client. If you want to perform tests that you haven't been asked to do then you are free to do so but you won't get paid for it.
An initial verification has to be carried out in full, in the correct order at all times in my opinion. A periodic you have a lot more flexibility due to the fact that 9 times out of 10 you’ll have various circuits that can’t be turned off and therefore certain tests your unable to carry out. But like I say, with an initial I always try to carry out a complete test in the order stated.
i agree with you and if you have installed the wiring and you are doing the testing you have no flexibility regarding the tests and should do them in the prescribed order. I was under the impression that the issue was just the testing of the units when someone else had done the wiring,in which case I would just test the sockets and note this on the certificate
 
To be honest I would do a full test under both circumstances. But IF I was to choose one then I would be more inclined to not test my own work as I know I’ve done it correctly. That being said I would still test it in full because no one is infallible
 
You have to do things right at all times not just sometimes
Agree, perhaps i should have said sometimes there's a difference between the two!
You are only responsible for what you have agreed with the client and you just need to record this on the certification that you give to the client.
True but the client or your plumbers are not qualified electricians so whatever they say doesn't override the correct way of doing it. That's the difference between a professional and a labourer.

The labourer just does what they're told and the bar for negligence is quite high. But for a professional you have a duty of care and when someone is killed or injured saying you wrote it on the form probably wouldn't go down too well.


Whenever any major incident happens, there is always a long chain of small passing of responsibility, and someone has to stand up for the right way. If it isn't of consequence, then it'll be ok, but knowing the purpose of testing and still noting limitations knowing that dangerous electrical installations could be put into use surely isn't professional behaviour?

Ok if after arguing the point with the bosses they are adamant then maybe, but it shouldnt be just go home thinking a good days work completed.

Edit sorry for the long post!:rolleyes:
 
You might be able to solder a fine flexible insulated wire ( say a few cm chopped from a headphone cable) onto the end of a fuse, and use that as a probe to make an adequate contact with the fuse holder which might now be able to almost close. ( The wire will jamb). It will depend on the particular brand/ design. Not something I've ever tried mind you.
( For dead test only I would add!)
 
One of the reasons for the R1+R2 test is to check it is a ring, can you not physically see the ring? You could always test at the flex pulling the fuse will prove fuse in the live. The other fused spurs the only way to take off spur.
 

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