The gray needs to be made safe at both ends as not needed.
Fan isolator needs to be changed to a switched fused spur fused to 3A.
Is the bathroom and kitchen lights on the same circuit as the fan?
 
The gray needs to be made safe at both ends as not needed.
Fan isolator needs to be changed to a switched fused spur fused to 3A.
Is the bathroom and kitchen lights on the same circuit as the fan?
Needs to be that big to get all the wires in
The knock out at the top of Appleby fast fix boxes is big enough to get more cables than is there.
 
So the supply is looped at the fan isolator and the bathroom switch, perhaps. Each switch that operates the fan is paralleled with three core cable (but the grey is used for neutral at the bathroom switch but only seems to go (possibly) to a connector block at the isolator).
I think the three core must have been the original plan but things changed (not for the better). I hope there is not a brown wire in the middle top terminal of the fan isolator. The fan isolator does not isolate the switched line but does isolate the permanent line and neutral, probably.
The fan is only switched from trickle to max boost.
9dB would be very hard to hear on trickle.
The fan switch could be separated out assuming my guesses are correct.
A somewhat confusing arrangement of wiring for a simple system, but perhaps logical when you are on site. Certainly not ideal; no need for a 3A fuse if fed from 6A lighting.
Bit of a guess at the wiring even though I cannot see all the connections in the TP isolator.
Extract fan with two lights DP switching and shaver 2.jpg
 
I did this to the bathroom light switch:

https://i.Upload the image directly to the thread.com/raVHZik.jpg

This stopped the fan boost turning on with the bathroom light.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't simply separate the poles with a 2-gang light switch like this?
 
I did this to the bathroom light switch:

https://i.Upload the image directly to the thread.com/raVHZik.jpg

This stopped the fan boost turning on with the bathroom light.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't simply separate the poles with a 2-gang light switch like this?
Is there a reason why there is 2 cpc's in the same piece of sleeving and why there is so much copper on show? That wiring needs shortening also.
 
I tink u mint bud speeling! :D
You've been on the spelling patrol so thought I'd get some payback :p
Not a problem Mate, no spelling mistake though was there just the wrong word used, I'll be watching you from now on, so be ware and be careful, OK:tongue::smilingimp::rage: And above all live long and prosper.
 
I did this to the bathroom light switch:
This stopped the fan boost turning on with the bathroom light.
Is there any reason why I shouldn't simply separate the poles with a 2-gang light switch like this?
Replacing the DP switch with a 2 gang 2 way switch is likely to be OK, but from afar we cannot tell if there may be other problems this may cause in the wiring. It does seem as if the live supply for the fan is not fed from either of the switches, but possibly from the fan isolator.
However to be able to categorically state it would be OK would not be possible at forum level.
 
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Confusing bathroom lights and fan wiring
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stringsonfire,
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