Convert 110V Waffle Iron to 220V

[Billebaars]

Hi all,

I recently purchased a Chef's Choice Cone Maker 838, which is a fairly basic waffle iron. The problem is, that as it is a product from the USA its operating voltage is 120V at 60Hz and 1050 Watt (these are probably the max values). Would there be any way of converting this to the UK 220V as this machine will probably fry when hooked up unmodified.

The iron is probably no more than a heating element with a thermostat, similar to a toaster. Would simply replacing the resistor element in the thermostat suffice? There are also two lights on it, but I don't mind if they break.

A step down voltage converter is too expensive for what it's worth, perhaps anybody could suggest a cheaper converter for this power output as cycles and ac/dc are of no importance to the waffle iron.

Thanks

 

[Marvo]

If the appliance has a top and bottom element of similar Kw ratings you could wire the elements in series for 230v operation if they're in parallel for 110v running. The indicator lamps I would just replace with 230v items. If he thermostat is a standard switch type with common/norm open/norm closed terminals then voltage shouldn't make a difference.

 

[Billebaars]

That's a great idea, will give it a try. Thanks

 

[Billebaars]

Unfortunately the elements are wired serially and rated at 500W each (1000W/2). The thermostat is a simple bimetal element (same as a toaster), so I was thinking of attaching a resistor at the input with the aim to reduce the current while operating at the same voltage in order to keep the power at ~1000W.

Should I apply I=V^2/R or I=V/R here? In addition, would this work at all? (I'm no prof electrician, working on first-year college physics here).

Many thanks

 

[MarkieSparkie]

A resistor is not a viable option because you would have to dissipate another 1000w in series with the Waffle iron. Effectively a 1Kw radiant heater would work as a voltage dropper, but dangerous, wasteful and inelegant.
The only sensible solution is a step-down transformer (230-110V), a portable "yellow brick" site transformer rated at 1.5kVA would be suitable, Screwfix 61847 @ £51-06 for example, but there are better deals available elsewhere if you Google.

 

[Marvo]

Unfortunately the elements are wired serially and rated at 500W each (1000W/2).

Are you sure the elements are already in series for 110v operation? That means the elements would actually get 55 volts each if there's two of them. This doesn't sound right.

..........I was thinking of attaching a resistor at the input with the aim to reduce the current while operating at the same voltage in order to keep the power at ~1000W.

Should I apply I=V^2/R or I=V/R here? In addition, would this work at all? (I'm no prof electrician, working on first-year college physics here).

Many thanks

I agree that you can't add a resistor as a voltage divider. You would need a massive power resistor and it would produce the same amount of heat as the element so it's not a viable option.

Depending on the heat density of the element surface at 110v and the tube material there's a slim chance it might work at 220 volts. Obviously the current draw and therefore heat output would be higher but the final temp of the cooking plates is determined by the thermostat so that should be a constant. I would do some careful experimentation if you have no other options. Temperature overrun after the t/stat has reached temp might be a problem with the higher element output but you could possibly compensate with the differential settings but like I said it's a last resort/slim chance.

 

[Steve1412]

Is it not possible to source a similar element rated at 230v?

 

[ian.settle1]

Sounds like it would have been cheaper to by one that works on 230v

 

[Billebaars]

Thanks for the replies, guys. I'll double check on the wiring, but I'm pretty sure it was in series. As for the elements, they are quite thick, which means they probably should hold at 220v. Not sure about the wires though, might replace the important ones and add a 4 or 6 amp fuse to the plug. As for the getting a 220v waffle iron, unfortunately this particular model is only in 110v. Will let you know how it goes.

 

[ian.settle1]

Does it have a CE mark by the way, as if it doesn't then you will be taking responsibility should anyone gets injured in court should the HSE come calling.

 

[Billebaars]

Plugged in the iron with 13A fuse (it burnt out a 3A and 5A fuse). It seems to work well and the thermostat cuts of the power before the plates get too hot. The elements are thick horse-shoe shaped pieces of aluminium, so I don't think they will burn out easily. Bit more worried about the thermostat, but this can be replaced. It does seem to be drawing alot of power when it is heating (gets hot really quick, lights dim) Gonna give it a few test runs to see if it will hold out.

Thanks for the advice guys

 

[pushrod]

More importantly have you got a good recipe for Belgian waffles

 

[Billebaars]

As expected, after frequent use on 220V, the waffle iron finally failed. I've isolated the failure down to a single part in the machine. I think it is a bimetal thermostat, but I'm not sure. I have posted up some pictures of the part. The first three pictures are of what I suspect is the broken part (tested it, no current running through it)
The final picture is that of what I am pretty sure is an adjustable bimetal thermostat (it can be adjusted with the setting dial).

My question is also: how do I fix this? Could I perhaps simply by-pass it and rely on the adjustable thermostat?

Thanks for your help.

 

[telectrix]

3kva site tranny 230/110v is the cheapest option. also, as the max. voltage wrt earth is 55v, safety is sorted. could waffle on for hours, but IMO< that's the easiest solution.

 

[Billebaars]

More importantly have you got a good recipe for Belgian waffles

Here's a good one: Classic Belgian Waffles Recipe : Emeril Lagasse : Food Network

I'd advise you to use realy yeast instead of baking powder and use pearl sugar!