Convert a dry lining box into a surface mounted box

[vwes59]

An odd question granted but bear with me.

I've got to extend a radial circuit in a community centre to fit a new hand dryer in the toilets, but I have two restrictions.

1. It's a listed building so I'm not allowed to damage the walls in any way.
2. Even if I could, I've been told there is asbestos in the wall cavities, so I couldn't drill into them anyway.

So, nearby there is a flush mounted single socket on a 20A radial. The easiest way would be to run some nice D-Trunking from that socket around the wall and into the toilet area where I can surface mount a switched fused spur for the hand dryer. Jobs a gooden. However it's a flush mounted socket, so to make a nice neat job I need to convert it to a surface mounted box, so I can neatly fit the trunking to it.

I suppose the first question is can it be done ? Currently in the wall is a 25mm metal back box. If I could find a way to screw a surface mounted box to it, then that solves the problem and I can fill any pasterwork gaps. I suppose I could very carefully drill out the fixing points from the back, that could allow a long fixing screw through the front plate, surface box and into the metal back box, but that seems to be a bit of a faff.

Is there anything on the market designed for this very job ?

 

[timhoward]

The only idea that comes to mind using products on the market would be to use something like this:

Google "1 gang to 2 gang adapter"
I'm not aware of a 1g to 1g version.

 

[Midwest]

If you google pattress conversion box, you should find something suitable.

 

[DefyG]

I suppose I could very carefully drill out the fixing points from the back, that could allow a long fixing screw through the front plate, surface box and into the metal back box, but that seems to be a bit of a faff.

Why a bit of a faff? No more so than having to drill and rawlplug to holes on a brick wall!

 

[timhoward]

The other thing occurring to me is if you can't screw the D-Line to the wall and can't secure the cable inside it using anything fire rated then premature collapse could be considered to be an issue.
In a listed building they would usually be obsessed with anything fire related and they may have to revise the method of working statement, or consider a different cable route.

 

[brianmoooore]

Aren't there semi pattress boxes available, intended for using where a fitting is to deep to mount into the flush box fitted, such as some dimmer switches into 16mm boxes?
Would one of these bring the existing socket out enough for D line, especially if the socket was one with a nice thick faceplate, like Crabtree 4304?

 

[timhoward]

Aren't there semi pattress boxes available, intended for using where a fitting is to deep to mount into the flush box fitted, such as some dimmer switches into 16mm boxes?
Would one of these bring the existing socket out enough for D line, especially if the socket was one with a nice thick faceplate, like Crabtree 4304?

Schneider Electric Lisse 1-Gang Spacer White - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. 1-gang spacer made from durable, high quality moulded urea with anti-microbial properties. Ideal for new construction and refurbishment projects. Concealed fixings. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

They tend to be 10mm.

 

[brianmoooore]

Would 10mm be just about be enough with a thick faceplate socket?

 

[vwes59]

The only idea that comes to mind using products on the market would be to use something like this:
View attachment 106574
Google "1 gang to 2 gang adapter"
I'm not aware of a 1g to 1g version.

Perfect, that could do it. Thanks. I don't think they would mind getting a double socket as a bonus!

 

[vwes59]

The other thing occurring to me is if you can't screw the D-Line to the wall and can't secure the cable inside it using anything fire rated then premature collapse could be considered to be an issue.
In a listed building they would usually be obsessed with anything fire related and they may have to revise the method of working statement, or consider a different cable route.

Basically I'm going to have to use the self adhesive D_Trunking, and screw metal clips inside them, but ensure any hole I drill or screw I use doesn't penetrate any deeper than the drywall. Now I know the thickness of the drywall from being able to measure it elsewhere. Hate discovering there's asbestos in a building, it's a pain in the backside. The other alternative could have been using the subfloor (ie the main floor of the community centre is raised on brick peers on a concrete base, but typically the toilet block was built later without a subfloor - it' solid !!

 

[timhoward]

Basically I'm going to have to use the self adhesive D_Trunking, and screw metal clips inside them, but ensure any hole I drill or screw I use doesn't penetrate any deeper than the drywal

Normally I'd suggest wall-dog screws as you are not pulling any material out. However they will definitely be deeper than the dry wall.

 

[nicebutdim]

Normally I'd suggest wall-dog screws as you are not pulling any material out. However they will definitely be deeper than the dry wall.

You still need to drill a hole to put them in.


Edit: I now realise you were referring to their use in dry wall, which isn't something I'd have considered when cheap fixings exist for that very purpose.

 

[timhoward]

Edit: I now realise you were referring to their use in dry wall, which isn't something I'd have considered when cheap fixings exist for that very purpose.

Yes. I was trying to avoid something that required drilling a hole first.

 

[nicebutdim]

Yes. I was trying to avoid something that required drilling a hole first.

I wonder if screw-in dry wall fixings could be cut down and used with a short screw - assuming dry lining is fixed directly onto the wall behind.

 

[DPG]

What about GripIts? They have wings which anchor in the gap behind the plasterboard. Very good in the right circumstances.