crimp and shrink

[midgetman]

Hey midgetman here


Extending twin and earth 2.5mm ring to take in two more sockets. Just looping down to them and then back to the ring.
Using blue and red crimps and some heat shrink. my mate says as they is in enclosed in false ceiling under floor boards this joint even though it is crimped and heat shrunk must be put in a choc box or similar so its in an enclosure. Is he right or is he just having a laugh?

thanks

 

[midgetman]

thanks and back to the real world

 

[Deleted member 26818]

thanks and back to the real world

The real world being that you owe your mate a bluey.

 

[midgetman]

The real world being that you owe your mate a bluey.

Yes your right! - I was trying to get away with it LOL ! thanks all for the input. :smiley2:

 

[1shortcircuit]

Quite right guys that would IMO comply with Reg 526.1

But the reg in my post is

Every termination and Joint in a LIVE conductor or a PEN conductor shall be made within one of the following or combination thereof:

(i) A suitable accessory complying with the appropriate standard

(ii) An equipment enclosure complying with the appropriate product standard

(iii) An enclosure partially formed or completed with building material which is non-combustible when tested to BS 476-4 (This as in Dunc post)

To be honest with you I cannot stand crimps. I have had occasions when using crimps and ratchet crimp tool where the cable has still come out of the joint with ease. I have since stopped using the ratchet tool and now use my snips (the type that come with the strip, crimp and threaded screw cutter). I have found these far more reliable.

I would also recommend the use of an enclosure wherever possible because if for any reason anyone does tug on the cable it could easily break the ring continuity on one if not all of the conductors and would go un-noticed unless an electrician had reason to be testing that circuit afterwards:goofy::rolleyes4::nonod:

 

[telectrix]

thru' crimps were originally designed for stranded cable and are generally fine with that. typical case of when we had the best cable going, some pratt decides to convert the industry to solid crap ( i'm referring to T/E as opposed to singles ). if you've ever tried pulling in 2.5mm that's been on the van overnight in january, that's one reason for calling it crap.

 

[Engineer54]

To be honest with you I cannot stand crimps. I have had occasions when using crimps and ratchet crimp tool where the cable has still come out of the joint with ease. I have since stopped using the ratchet tool and now use my snips (the type that come with the strip, crimp and threaded screw cutter). I have found these far more reliable.

I would also recommend the use of an enclosure wherever possible because if for any reason anyone does tug on the cable it could easily break the ring continuity on one if not all of the conductors and would go un-noticed unless an electrician had reason to be testing that circuit afterwards:goofy::rolleyes4::nonod:

You have just got to be kidding us here?? What you need is a decent crimping tool, one with adjustable crimping pressure. There is No Way on this earth that those cheap combi crimp tools can better a pukka ratchet crimp tool. Except maybe as in your case, ...a worn out ratchet crimp tool!! lol!!!

 

[Knobhead]

Having spent many unhappy hours chasing fault due to crimps being used on solid conductors I’m against them 100%. As designed for use on stranded they are great and I trust them.

 

[Benny_Boy]

I've used through crimps for years, it's like any jointing method...a poor tradesman can make a poor job of anything be it an swa gland or a resin pot. It comes down to the proficiency of the OP. For me crimps are a reliable jointing method. Some guys here don't like wagos but if you shove 'em in properly you simply cannot pull 'em out.

 

[DaveyD]

OK, two observations.

One :: Some through crimps are carp. Called CK as the blues and reds bought from Electrifix were not holding on any pressure. CK tech said oh yes we have had complaints about them, you want branded SWA ones. So swapped and works fine.(Threw the old ones in the van - mistake I then had 200 of the little blighters in the door runners )
Two :: Even better solution - I misplaced my CK ratchets so bought SWA ratchet crimpers. Look the same without the numbers on the press. They were £10 less than my CK yet work with their own SWA crimps even better! It's not the adjustment either. Later in the week I found the CK ratchet crimpers and when you compare the two the head is the correct length for each part of the crimp on the SWA ones. Moral - use crimps and ratchet from same manufacturer IMO.

 

[Engineer54]

Having spent many unhappy hours chasing fault due to crimps being used on solid conductors I’m against them 100%. As designed for use on stranded they are great and I trust them.

Have to disagree with you on that one Tony, a decent crimp tool with decent crimps and you will have a permanent joint that isn't going to go anywhere fast!! Always use a crimping tool that deforms the conductor within the crimp, that is the determining factor with solid core crimping!!! It's all down to that age old saying, using the ''Right Tool'' and Right Material'' will win the day every time...lol!!!

 

[Benny_Boy]

OK, two observations.

One :: Some through crimps are carp. Called CK as the blues and reds bought from Electrifix were not holding on any pressure. CK tech said oh yes we have had complaints about them, you want branded SWA ones. So swapped and works fine.(Threw the old ones in the van - mistake I then had 200 of the little blighters in the door runners )
Two :: Even better solution - I misplaced my CK ratchets so bought SWA ratchet crimpers. Look the same without the numbers on the press. They were £10 less than my CK yet work with their own SWA crimps even better! It's not the adjustment either. Later in the week I found the CK ratchet crimpers and when you compare the two the head is the correct length for each part of the crimp on the SWA ones. Moral - use crimps and ratchet from same manufacturer IMO.

I've had crimps from a few places but ERF do solid crimps which take two hands (and I'm 6'4" with big arms) and I've NEVER had one come off. as DaveyB says, you need to make sure you use quality components and tools. If you're doing that, there's no reason you should have any issue.

 

[Benny_Boy]

Have to disagree with you on that one Tony, a decent crimp tool with decent crimps and you will have a permanent joint that isn't going to go anywhere fast!! Always use a crimping tool that deforms the conductor within the crimp, that is the determining factor with solid core crimping!!! It's all down to that age old saying, using the ''Right Tool'' and Right Material'' will win the day every time...lol!!!

beat me to it Eng54!

 

[Risteard]

try the Hager maintanance free junction boxes, it may cost you a little nore than your previous plan but will take half the time and within the regs

Personally I would consider it to be a Departure from the Requirements of BS 7671.

 

[1shortcircuit]

You have just got to be kidding us here??

Um??? Nope lol I place more faith in my snips than I do in the ratchet tool that I have been currently using.

What you need is a decent crimping tool, one with adjustable crimping pressure.

A valid suggestion and I would quite happily part with whatever the cost of a new ratchet tool providing I know it's going to do it's job correctly:thumbsup

There is No Way on this earth that those cheap combi crimp tools can better a pukka ratchet crimp tool. Except maybe as in your case, ...a worn out ratchet crimp tool!! lol!!!

Trust me, I have more confidence in my snips which is why I use them. I did several test runs using them and they never failed even after a short sharp tug

 

[telectrix]

if only carlsberg made crimps.