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gazdkw82

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An electrician friend of mine is going to replace my CU before he moves abroad.

I'm going to use it as a way of practice (as if where doing it myself) and thencompare with how he does it for real.

So far I have listed what circuits I currently have and thecurrent CU set up.

I’ve also made a list of the following

Number of downstairs and upstairs sockets
Number of upstairs and downstairs light including breakdown oftotal wattage of bulbs in use for each floor
Large items in use (fridge, washing machine etc.)

I’m a little stuck on how I figure out exactly what theelectric oven should be rated at. Its fitted so I can’t pull it out to get anyinformation. Would it best to turn it all on max and Amp clamp the outgoingsupply at the CU?

I have also made a floor plan with location and wiring ofall electrical appliances, supplies and services.

I will next take into account voltage drop, diversity andtemp factors where applicable….

Would that be considered the right approach?

Next, I’m abit confused about how I would choose the layoutof the board. Would it just be preference?

Personally id like RCBO’s on all circuits although this is amore expensive option?

Thanks
 
RCBOs are the preferred option, but if you are going to use a dual RCD board, try and split the circuits between the 2 RCDs so that not all sockets are on 1 RCD and also that the lighting circuits are split. this is so that if 1 RCD trips, you don't lose all sockets or all lights. you ould consider a hi-integrity board where you can connect a freezer socket to a non-RCD way or it's own RCBO.
 
RCBOs are the preferred option, but if you are going to use a dual RCD board, try and split the circuits between the 2 RCDs so that not all sockets are on 1 RCD and also that the lighting circuits are split. this is so that if 1 RCD trips, you don't lose all sockets or all lights. you ould consider a hi-integrity board where you can connect a freezer socket to a non-RCD way or it's own RCBO.

good advice. I would rather get away from dual RCD but I understand It is the cheaper option. The CU now has to be metal to comply with current regs?

Any advice on a good board? I think I need minimum 10 circuits
 
look at the BG 10 way hi-integrity populated CU in steel. they also do a 12 or 13 way. good value for money. the crabtree starbreaker is a good board, but not as flexible. hager are the choice of a lot of the members. bear in mind the available space. all these CUs are a lot wider than, say, an old wylex 3036 board.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/bg-13-way-dual-rcd-metal-consumer-unit-10-mcbs/3150g
 
[ElectriciansForums.net] CU Change[ElectriciansForums.net] CU ChangeSBS trade sales compact RCBO board with dual busbars and to top it off they are SPSN which is a rarity. About ÂŁ14-ÂŁ15 an RCBO.
 
RCBOs are the preferred option, but if you are going to use a dual RCD board, try and split the circuits between the 2 RCDs so that not all sockets are on 1 RCD and also that the lighting circuits are split. this is so that if 1 RCD trips, you don't lose all sockets or all lights. you ould consider a hi-integrity board where you can connect a freezer socket to a non-RCD way or it's own RCBO.

On the odd occasion when I have done a domestic job I do the same and also try and put either the cooker or Heating on a seperate Rcbo , that way they can still either keep warm or cook a meal if the rcd's go faulty which knowing sods law always happens in winter.
 

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