JesterClaypole
DIY
Hello,
Would welcome thoughts/advice on wiring query below. Apologies for a possibly excessive amount of detail, wanted to provide as much info to aid understanding. I will post photos, can't see the button to upload them immediately.
Context: Damp 2x car garage - insulation underway to resolve that. Loft boards added for permanent storage of lightweight boxes.
Current lighting:
16a MCB type B on CU fed from house via SWA
Within garage, split into lighting and power circuits, both radial
2-plate feed to switch A at roller door end
2-way switching via pre 2006 3 core & earth to second switch B at opposite side of garage 5-6 metres away.
2x fluorescent battens in the roofspace.
Am doing more and more woodworking within the garage, and although I've currently left a gap in middle of garage for some light, the loft boards will eventually cover the roofspace and block light into the main workspace, so last year purchased 1x LED 5ft batten and 1x rectangular LED panel to fit below the joists.
2x new light fittings will be turned on routinely when coming into the garage.
2 existing roofspace battens only to be switched on when entering loft space.
Position for new LED batten is already known, so attached to joists last week.
Have run a second (new) 3-core and earth between the two switches (not yet connected at either end).
Have converted both existing 1-gang 2-way switches to 2-gang 2-way, moving the existing wiring across to match exactly.
Have connected 1.5mm T&E to batten lead through a wago box, and tacked along one of the joists to the switch wall.
Due to a complete absence of assessing (and/or forgetting) the feed location, I had planned to connect the new batten to rear switch B. Hmmm.. only one cable into switch B, the 3-core and earth from switch A. D'oh.... "Fail to plan, ... " I know, I know...
The additional rectangular LED panel, which will very likely be nearer the feed, I don't yet plan to mount until I have moved additional floorboards into position above its intended location.
So in the meantime, I'm trying to determine best option to connect the LED batten.
Current thoughts below, would welcome ideas from the pros here...
1) Create a branch from power circuit from socket nearest batten, use that as feed, but would still need to drop to switch B, and recognise it could cause light failure if the power circuit is tripped (though power and lighting all off 1x MCB anyway)
2) Use temporary task lighting, fit additional floorboards, mount the LED panel, connect it to the much nearer feed at switch A, then extend circuit to new batten - least favoured, but appreciate may be sensible
3) Run branch from feed to somewhere near switch B, connect switch B as primary 2-way for light circuit 2
4) Preferred option, if regs permit... can I run the neutral from feed at switch A, through blue-sleeved grey of 3C&E to switch B, permanent line on black or brown as usual, to connect the batten at switch B? i.e. connect the batten's live and neutral at switch B, even though feed is into switch A?
My understanding is 3C&E implicitly has a neutral but various posts I've read have different views on whether this is viable. Most of the details I've read on 3C&E suggest feed and switched line to the light fitting are only from the same switch.
Some posts seem to suggest you can't carry the neutral through on L1/L2 since the circuit will always be live and other potential issues, but the existing wiring does carry neutral through, rather than joining to light fitting neutral in a wago or loop terminal. (Recognise 2x wrongs, if it is wrong, don't make a right.)
(I'm assuming I can't just branch from existing light battens to new ones as I need to turn the 2x pairs on/off as necessary, but please advise if I've misunderstood. )
I will likely get an EICR but absolutely strapped for cash so trying to work out options first.
Thank you to those that have had the patience to read through!!
Would welcome thoughts/advice on wiring query below. Apologies for a possibly excessive amount of detail, wanted to provide as much info to aid understanding. I will post photos, can't see the button to upload them immediately.
Context: Damp 2x car garage - insulation underway to resolve that. Loft boards added for permanent storage of lightweight boxes.
Current lighting:
16a MCB type B on CU fed from house via SWA
Within garage, split into lighting and power circuits, both radial
2-plate feed to switch A at roller door end
2-way switching via pre 2006 3 core & earth to second switch B at opposite side of garage 5-6 metres away.
2x fluorescent battens in the roofspace.
Am doing more and more woodworking within the garage, and although I've currently left a gap in middle of garage for some light, the loft boards will eventually cover the roofspace and block light into the main workspace, so last year purchased 1x LED 5ft batten and 1x rectangular LED panel to fit below the joists.
2x new light fittings will be turned on routinely when coming into the garage.
2 existing roofspace battens only to be switched on when entering loft space.
Position for new LED batten is already known, so attached to joists last week.
Have run a second (new) 3-core and earth between the two switches (not yet connected at either end).
Have converted both existing 1-gang 2-way switches to 2-gang 2-way, moving the existing wiring across to match exactly.
Have connected 1.5mm T&E to batten lead through a wago box, and tacked along one of the joists to the switch wall.
Due to a complete absence of assessing (and/or forgetting) the feed location, I had planned to connect the new batten to rear switch B. Hmmm.. only one cable into switch B, the 3-core and earth from switch A. D'oh.... "Fail to plan, ... " I know, I know...
The additional rectangular LED panel, which will very likely be nearer the feed, I don't yet plan to mount until I have moved additional floorboards into position above its intended location.
So in the meantime, I'm trying to determine best option to connect the LED batten.
Current thoughts below, would welcome ideas from the pros here...
1) Create a branch from power circuit from socket nearest batten, use that as feed, but would still need to drop to switch B, and recognise it could cause light failure if the power circuit is tripped (though power and lighting all off 1x MCB anyway)
2) Use temporary task lighting, fit additional floorboards, mount the LED panel, connect it to the much nearer feed at switch A, then extend circuit to new batten - least favoured, but appreciate may be sensible
3) Run branch from feed to somewhere near switch B, connect switch B as primary 2-way for light circuit 2
4) Preferred option, if regs permit... can I run the neutral from feed at switch A, through blue-sleeved grey of 3C&E to switch B, permanent line on black or brown as usual, to connect the batten at switch B? i.e. connect the batten's live and neutral at switch B, even though feed is into switch A?
My understanding is 3C&E implicitly has a neutral but various posts I've read have different views on whether this is viable. Most of the details I've read on 3C&E suggest feed and switched line to the light fitting are only from the same switch.
Some posts seem to suggest you can't carry the neutral through on L1/L2 since the circuit will always be live and other potential issues, but the existing wiring does carry neutral through, rather than joining to light fitting neutral in a wago or loop terminal. (Recognise 2x wrongs, if it is wrong, don't make a right.)
(I'm assuming I can't just branch from existing light battens to new ones as I need to turn the 2x pairs on/off as necessary, but please advise if I've misunderstood. )
I will likely get an EICR but absolutely strapped for cash so trying to work out options first.
Thank you to those that have had the patience to read through!!
