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a 100AH leisure battery and a sack truck to carry it round on.
 
Hi there, I think you are creating a rod for your own back here, there is more to this then stepping up the voltage to 230v and changing from DC to AC to run power tools, I would look into getting a battery powered joiners power tool kit with spare batteries to boot.
The moment you start upping voltages of batteries you have a dilemma of safety , earthing arrangments etc, also 230v power tools with motors will generate inrushes of up to 10 times full load currents and you need to carefully consider whether the batteries can handle this, the moment you start pushing past 50v you are starting to get into voltage levels that are dangerous and any equipment + batteries you would require to do this would be far heavier than a generator set.
This is why Generators are still used on site with no power still as its the most practical method even if its just charging up your batteries on your power tools.
 
I can't help thinking that just buying cordless power tools is the best way in the long term. There are very few power tools now that aren't available battery powered. I haven't used a mains powered tool on site for ages, apart from the vacuum cleaner, and you can get quite powerful battery ones of those now.
 
If its just to charge battery tools, some cheap inverters come with smoke lighter plug on the end of them, just try to steer clear of the square waveform type at the very least get a modified sine wave type
 
Isnt square wave modified sine wave? And most power tools use universal motors which means they work on ac or dc and in all honesty its just so i can use my bigger tools as cordless grinders/table saws etc tend to be anemic haha i ihink even 3 of my batteries at 60v would still be better than an 18v one or paying through the nose for flexvolt tools at 140 a battery plus 500 a tool its not something I want to fork out for
 
Generators are fine for charging batteries, yes modified sine wave is still square but is slightly improved over the basic square type... Google it
 
try powering a 25mm auger bit through 4" thick joists - 100 holes in total. had to be makita 110V sds for that, followed by large dose of ibuprofen for aching arms.
 
try powering a 25mm auger bit through 4" thick joists - 100 holes in total. had to be makita 110V sds for that, followed by large dose of ibuprofen for aching arms.
Here you are, tel, (although it pains me to say it, as all my cordless stuff is Makita) these Milwaukee hole hawgs look the biz for big holes in wood:
 
Here you are, tel, (although it pains me to say it, as all my cordless stuff is Makita) these Milwaukee hole hawgs look the biz for big holes in wood:
ptobably fine if only a few holes. with auger bits, it's a lot of torque required as opposed to rotational speed. those batteries would not last out long.
 
ptobably fine if only a few holes. with auger bits, it's a lot of torque required as opposed to rotational speed. those batteries would not last out long.
Did you watch the video? Manufacturer claims the Hole Hawg (the small one) is rated for auger bits up to 1ÂĽ" and will do 150 7/8" holes on one charge. I find that pretty impressive. The bigger one has a two speed gearbox giving a slow speed of 350 rpm for bigger bits.
 
Did you watch the video? Manufacturer claims the Hole Hawg (the small one) is rated for auger bits up to 1ÂĽ" and will do 150 7/8" holes on one charge. I find that pretty impressive. The bigger one has a two speed gearbox giving a slow speed of 350 rpm for bigger bits.
sounds impressive. unfortunately, i can'y justify spending that amount of hard-earned.
 
DC over 80V is more hazardous.
Earth gives a reference point ..
(possibly more dangerous...Unless it can trip some "Exotic?" safety device) ....
....We are not Switch-Mode-PSU designers !....
 

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