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D

Darkwood

Right ... Just been nudged to set this up by Paul.M and sounds a good idea following recent threads I've done in the Arms..

Rules....No Offensive material... edit if required before posting as this is the public arena.
Anything to do with the trade or in and around it ...H&S pic's welcome.

[ElectriciansForums.net] Dodgy trade pictures for your amusement! - 1 Million Views!

I've posted this a few times and this is at a mates house following a kitchen refirb several yrs ago. :eek:mg_smile:

[ElectriciansForums.net] Dodgy trade pictures for your amusement! - 1 Million Views!
 
I find those type of push fit connectors can be very tricky with flex, takes the knack to get them to grip properly and easy to get it wrong. No excuse for the mess they made of it overall though!
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Was it poor connection inside the wire nut that had caused the melt? or overload?

I still have a few from when Ideal tried to bring them back over here maybe 10 years ago? Never tempted to use them, though I have a couple of the waterproof gel filled ones in my bag for outdoor bodgery...
As far as I can tell, it was not an overload, it is inverter controlled and the current limits set correctly.

Working on the assumption that it was a poor connection as the others were ok and it is an equal load on all of them
 
don't tell me, replace cooker isolation switch.
cant damage tiles or cupboard because they have just been installed?!!!
 
Nothing wrong with a good steak pie made with good ingredients pirate, balanced diet is the answer....so I balance pies with some veg and Guinness ?
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C’mon that is creative engineering there! ?
veg. my arse. a balanced diet is a pie in each hand with beer close by.
 
Good grief you would have to be either very lazy or very stupid to install the kitchen unit over the switch like that. Not to mention it looks awful.
don't tell me, replace cooker isolation switch.
cant damage tiles or cupboard because they have just been installed?!!!

Previous owner DIY'd it apparently, so hopefully they are planning to retile. All a bit odd - all RCD sockets in the kitchen, though a dual RCD CU was installed in 2015.

Oven that's blocking that switch doesn't seem to be run from it (might be from a socket outlet if that switch has one behind the cupboard - in which case a 4.1kW oven is running off a 13A plug)

And an Elecsa EIC for the new board that claims the 6mm Cooker circuit has ring continuity while the 2.5mm "Ring Circuit" doesn't :rolleyes:

Not to mention that it claims 10mm main earth when the feed is 16mm T&E, and the 2 10mm g/y cables leaving the CU don't go back to the MET.

Going to be a fun can of worms to open.

Still, on the plus side I installed a new Fusebox CU at the source today (adding a couple of circuits in a porch) so they have SPD for the installation and proper bonding at least.
 
Classic case of "job and finish" fitting a cupboard like that. No concern for the future use, no pride in workmanship, just shove it in and take the money. Makes me very angry...and seen far too often. Bet the fitter said proudly to the homeowner "Look, there you go, I've cut that just perfect so you can still use the switch".
However, it could be fun if you were ever called to rewire Kev's house...T&E clipped direct to the tiling in the kitchen, use up all your round edged socket plates on his square edged back boxes, and of course use plasterboard screws for everything, and no wall-plugs...
Except, Electricians have standards to adhere to...
 
Landlords mains board installed in 2018.
Column light which had been replaced a month ago and was flickering.
 

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Landlords mains board installed in 2018.

The first obvious mistake was installing blurry breakers ;)

Is that all the lighting on one RCD, and the sockets etc on another? Sounds like good selectivity.

I'll admit I'm not the neatest with boards, but I'd like to think I'd manage better than that. What's going on with those tails?

Column light which had been replaced a month ago and was flickering.

At least he used blue tape to match the arctic rating of the feed cable! Did the manufacturer actually supply a suitable method of terminating the flex? Might avoid some of the lash ups if they did.

Can't remember the last time I used those connectors though - wago/ideal are so much easier. One of those little Wiska mini gel filled boxes seems perfectly suited for occasions like this.
 
I believe the blurry ness of the picture is due to the shear amount of water that has got on everything today haha. I’m not sure in the manufacturer supplied anything, however the fitting was able to be opened and a new flex easily installed, although if that voided the MF warranty will be a mystery. One of those torpedo 20A IP68 thru connectors would have been my choice of weapon though if faced with this conundrum. Ended up swapping out 4 column heads in the end for new.
 

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