Dodgy trade pictures for your amusement! - 1 Million Views!

[Darkwood]

Right ... Just been nudged to set this up by Paul.M and sounds a good idea following recent threads I've done in the Arms..

Rules....No Offensive material... edit if required before posting as this is the public arena.
Anything to do with the trade or in and around it ...H&S pic's welcome.



I've posted this a few times and this is at a mates house following a kitchen refirb several yrs ago. mg_smile:

 

[westward10]

Looks like the instructions are in the back.

 

[freddo]

Looks like the instructions are in the back.

Well they certainly never went anywhere near the installers eyes.

 

[mainline]

Well they certainly never went anywhere near the installers eyes.

He was probably blind.

 

[littlespark]

that's got "builder" written all over it.

partly because of the ---- show of an installation, and partly because of the fact that the instructions haven't been followed, read or even moved from the box.

 

[DefyG]

Makes you wonder how the RCD is held there as no evidence of a din rail!

 

[Dustydazzler]

as above , that has 'builders wiring' written all over it

i don't imagin the rcd is fixed to anything, just the cable strain holding it in situ

 

[nicebutdim]

Makes you wonder how the RCD is held there as no evidence of a din rail!

Pretty certain there'll be mention of din rail in those instructions.

 

[freddo]

Got a call to look at lights flickering/not working sometimes. Thought I'd start at the consumer unit, took the lid off and was greeted with this! Note only one conductor is clamped in the terminal of the left hand ring, and the main neutral from the second RCD to the right hand neutral bar was also undone. There were other problems with the lights including loose connections at wago connectors where 2 or 3 conductors hand be connected to a single port.

 

[timhoward]

I got called to a fairly straightforward case - "when I turn on the outside light it trips the RCD".
The before L+N-> E IR test was 0.8 Mohms. I showed the customer, explained bare minimum was effectively 2 (or 1 if you want to argue) and now we'd disconnect the light and see what it jumped to. "It shouldn't be the light, I bought it new and fitted it myself". Ok, let's see.

Ah, factory fitted flex removed, T&E all the way to the light.... the problem wasn't exactly hard to identify:

Snip. >299 Mohms. New joint box. New light.

 

[nicebutdim]

"It shouldn't be the light, I bought it new and fitted it myself".

Priceless.

 

[James]

99% of the time that is like a red rag to a bull, come on and show me the disaster of an installation and I can redo it and go home.
sometimes though it is incredible how much effort a diyer will go to in order for it to be perfect, sometimes with one simple to rectify mistake. Those are the jobs where it is a joy to repair and educate at the same time.

 

[nicebutdim]

Looking again at Tim's image, I don't think a factory fitted flex had been removed. It looks very like connections on LAP floodlights a few years back. They didn't inspire confidence when connection NYY-J or HO7, but in fairness I never did have any issues with water ingress.

I was going to facetiously suggest they rarely lasted long enough to see a shower of rain, but that would be unfair when backed by a 3 year warranty.

 

[timhoward]

Priceless.

To be fair he wanted to know why, and we chatted UV rays and grommet shapes!

Looking again at Tim's image, I don't think a factory fitted flex had been removed. It looks very like connections on LAP floodlights a few years back.

I think you are right. It would have been a sod to terminate, so some respect is due that it worked at all, for a while!

I was going to facetiously suggest they rarely lasted long enough to see a shower of rain,

My current habit is Collingwood units. They seem to be lasting well. Also easy to fit (as are their bathroom bulkheads)

 

[mainline]

To be fair he wanted to know why, and we chatted UV rays and grommet shapes!

I would lean toward talking about payment

 

[Julie.]

I have been asked to wire an Air Source Heat Pump for a Koi pond - no biggie from the electrical point of view.

However, I thought I would check up on the required settings, and plumbing - just in case there is anything special for this application, so came across this video:

I just love the strain relief at 3:20, the bolting straight through the vibration feet at 9:20 (so they're bypassed transmitting the vibration straight through).

Can't see any danger with the consumer unit or wiring to the meter around 10:45 though!

And he and his commenters think he's done a brilliant job.