Does a 13A plug in oven need to be wired into a cooker switch in rental properties ? | Page 3 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Does a 13A plug in oven need to be wired into a cooker switch in rental properties ? in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

If it comes supplied with a plug, plug it in.

if it comes without one, have a spark wire it in.

why do people have to complicate matters and quote laws that don't exist anywhere other than in their own minds??
 
As far as i know, in Scotland anyway, there is no such requirement. If the manufacturers fit a plug and say it's to be plugged in, that's the way to go.
Indeed, for non-electrically minded landlords who have a hands-on approach, many prefer the plug-in option for all appliances, such as cookers,hobs,washing machine, dishwasher etc as it makes swapping out a faulty appliance quick and easy with less hassle for landlord and tenant alike. It makes ISITEE simpler too.
Cheers Pirate
 
All, thanks very much for taking the time to reply and sharing your knowledge and experience.
In summary :
  • There are no additional electrical or building regs for a rental property for this situation
  • If it's got a plug, use it.
  • If you need to add a new spur it'll need RCD protection
  • If you hard wire into a new SFCU, need to consider whether the cables warrant RCD protection
    • ....I might ask my scheme for their view on that one rather than stretch this thread
  • And finally, in all situations, beware of bullshitters !
 
BTW, what do you all use to clean the acres of stainless steel in a kitchen? Fridge-freezers, ovens, extractor fans...I tried everyting from commercial stuff to old wives' remedies...and actually a professional cleaner pointed me at the perfect solution...but i want to hear everyone's views before revealing the miracle cure!

WD40 makes a pretty good stainless steel cleaner and polish
 
If you cut the plug off some appliances it voids the warranty.

Why do people insist on perpetuating this myth

It does not void the warranty what it does do is prevent the appliance engineer carrying out safe isolation of the appliance to carry out repairs if it is hard wired.
They are trained that safe isolation is to pull the plug end of no other method of safe isolation is available to them and they will refuse to repair unless someone else will disconnect the appliance that is not voiding the warranty it is the procedure they are trained to follow
 
lettings agents , the great rip off of our time, what do they actually do ? what knowledege do they have ? here they are quoting regs that don't even exist, driving about in new minis with logo's on doors. Hey ho rant over :mad:
 
Going back to the origins of this thread a sec (sorry PCB), If an item is hardwired; is there a requirement to have a means of electrical isolation (FCU) at worktop height? If not why not - if the only means of isolation is back at the fuseboard, is that not a bit daft?

I can understand having FCUs, what they do etc (and why for some wierd reason people not liking them on thier kitchen worktop real-estate) but surely there has to be something somewhere that says if you can reach the switch to turn it off (because the appliance is in front of it), then an accessible switch in the local area should be provided? - hide it in a cupboard and label but just provide the bloody thing,,,,,
 
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