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SparkyChick

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Hi all,

As the title suggests, I'm looking for a little bit of guidance.

Long story short... kitchen remodel, was asked to install a heavy duty supply for an induction hob on short timescales as ceiling was going to be closed.

Only sizeable cable I had to hand was 10mm.

Now, in a happy turn of events, it turns out that the induction hob isn't that hungry and only needs to plug in, but the oven and microwave also require supplies. None of them are over 16A.

So my original plan was to install a BG shower CU, switch out the breakers for 16A (one for each appliance) and supply this using the 10mm on a 50A breaker from the main DB. The new CU was to be mounted on the wall, making an obvious accessory safety zone.

However, due to the construction of the kitchen units, I felt it better to have the CU inside a cupboard rather than cut a portion of the backboard away.

Where I'm seeking guidance is that this now means the 10mm is concealed in the wall, from ceiling to just below the top of the cupboard. Along the rest of it's run, it is installed in a manner (i.e. it's not at risk of damage and it's not concealed in a wall) that means it's fine to be connected to the non-RCD side of the board (the new CU has RCD protection in it).

So I have a length of cable about 10-12" buried in the wall. Due to it's location I don't believe it is at risk of being damaged by screws as it is unlikely anyone will want to hang anything there because it's effectively behind the cupboard.

I have placed a warning sticker on the top of the cupboard (Danger Concealed Cable - This includes an arrow aligned with the vertical drop of the cable). I'm going to record full details on the certificate of the location of the cable and my reasoning as to why this is acceptable.

Acceptable or not? Is this kind of departure allowed in domestic and if so is it sufficient to include your reasoning in the certificate or is there a template risk assessment I would need to use?

Your comments and thoughts are most welcome :)
 
And to boot, it appears based on the test in GN8, with a resistance to the MET of 52k ohm, the water doesn't need it's bonding reconnecting which begs the question... why was it bonded in the first place?

That's because its the way its always been done, rightly & wrongly. Not withstanding the merits & correct procedure, will continue to be the case.
 
I remember a time when you were in danger of getting the cutlery bonded if you weren't careful. A very contentious and misunderstood area for a lot of electricians. I use that word advisedly!
 

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