downlight flex

[Sparky_Ben]

what type of flex do you guys use for downlighter wiring, obviously just from the loop in, loop out JB, down to the fitting, now i know it will have to be high temperature/ heat resistant but what would the cable code be to look for in the catalogues,

thanks

 

[MarkieSparkie]

3092Y 2 core or 3093Y 3core heat resistant PVC insulated cables to BS6500/BS7919 would be a good choice. Most electrical wholesalers will have it in stock.

309-Y - Heat Resistant Flexible Cords

 

[Amp David]

Does anyone bother with using flex on the fittings that allow 2 T&Es to loop in and out, such as the Click Flameguards.

 

[Top Cat]

Yes i do, fed up with trying to get 2 x 1.5mm T&e cables in that tiny little joint box!

 

[SPARTYKUS]

Never seen an install with that. Always t&e

 

[rich.250]

I've never seen a manufacturer request it to be wired in flex. And I don't really see the need if it's a decent fitting designed to be wired into. As your just putting a unnecessary joint in. If you had to have jbs above each light I would probably use flex. I just think its easier and better to limit jbs.

 

[Farmelectrics]

Twin and eart in to lighting jbs and connect spots into jb as well no need for flex

 

[Rockingit]

I'm just doing a kitchen where the ceiling void has underfloor heating in it as well, so it's heat flex all the way from the switch onwards.

 

[rich.250]

I'm just doing a kitchen where the ceiling void has underfloor heating in it as well, so it's heat flex all the way from the switch onwards.

That's a good call

 

[Brightspark2]

T+E striaght in for me too, if it can be done...

Save on joints and JB's...

 

[sjm]

I've seen too many examples of T+E burnt out against downlighter body for my liking. So IMHO it's T+E to Ashley 501 JB (or similar 17th ed compliant JB) then heat resistant flex to downlighter.

 

[rich.250]

I know what you mean have come across it. But surely If the cable is secured correctly it shouldn't be touching the side of the fitting lol

 

[sjm]

I know what you mean have come across it. But surely If the cable is secured correctly it shouldn't be touching the side of the fitting lol

True, but I still think it's best practice.
Whereabouts in Cornwall are you?

 

[rich.250]

Helston. You?

 

[i=p/u]

i used 500mm of heat resistant for each downlight but i have also just wired whole circuit in flex..

 

[sjm]

Snap Helston, well not quite. Carnkie, that's the Wendron one not the Redruth one, so between Rame and Helston.

 

[rich.250]

Lol. I thought id heard the name.
Busy mate?

 

[sjm]

Not bad bud, you?
Have I seen you about?

 

[rich.250]

W k electrical.....
I haven't had a sign written van for about a year so maybe not. Lol

 

[Amp David]

Yes i do, fed up with trying to get 2 x 1.5mm T&e cables in that tiny little joint box!

I've seen too many examples of T+E burnt out against downlighter body for my liking. So IMHO it's T+E to Ashley 501 JB (or similar 17th ed compliant JB) then heat resistant flex to downlighter.

True, but I still think it's best practice.
Whereabouts in Cornwall are you?

Take it then none of you have used the click fittings then, they are designed fro 2 2.5mm T&Es to loop in loop out. no risk of melting cables

 

[sjm]

Take it then none of you have used the click fittings then, they are designed fro 2 2.5mm T&Es to loop in loop out. no risk of melting cables

I stand corrected.
As always get 5 electricians in a room and ask a question, you'll get at least 3 different answers.