Earth Queries (+ others!)

[woodbutcher32]

Morning all, I'm in the process of selling my house and an inspection by a local electrician has thrown up several queries, any help & advice would be greatly appreciated...

"No existing main earth to incoming water"- Is it possible for me to simply install another Earth rod or MUST I go back to the CU (Which would be complicated)

"Existing earth to earth rod has no mechanical protection" - Is this just a case of enclosing the earth from the CU to existing front earth rod in plastic conduit?

"Existing lighting circuits are not looped in and a continuity of earth cannot be verified" he is advising re-wiring 8 no. lights (3 of which are 2 way) Is this really necessary or is there an alternative? The wiring in the house was re-wired around 10 years ago and is all in good condition, the cost he is quoting is money that I don't realy have!

"consumer unit has exposed parts" he is advising replacing with a new 17th. edition CU but is this really necessary by law?

thanks again

Woody

 

[Deleted member 9648]

This is the earth to the spike, would some conduit be acceptable? what would I do with the cable as it runs over the ground? could I bury it slightly?

View attachment 8012

Provide conduit to the cable and a purpose made earth electode pit....quick and cheap fix.

 

[Deleted member 9648]

And this is the 10mm Earth running down the side of the front door frame, Must this be protected? Would some plastic conduit suffice?

Again many thanks for everybody taking the time to reply.

View attachment 8013

Apart from looking naff no problem with that at all.

 

[woodbutcher32]

Thanks again for taking the time to reply Wirepuller, what do you mean by an "electrode pit"? and do the MCB's have to be changed and if so to what?

 

[Knobhead]

Earth pit cover

http://www.google.co.uk/#q=earth+ro..._gc.r_pw.&fp=a8f32f7e6ae2e7f7&biw=800&bih=447

 

[Knobhead]

MCB's

B TYPE WYLEX MCB - B6 - B10 - B16 - B20 - B32 6AMP 10AMP 16AMP

 

[GLENNSPARK]

If that was the dis board in the photo then you might want to consider a new one. As for a TT system....Table 4.2 OSG (P29) shows minimum sizes of earthing conductor (not protected)...so for a main earthing conductor not buried and unprotected against either corrosion and/or mechanical damage the minimum CSA is 4mm. As neither your earthing or bonding conductors are buried and are over 4mm (for main earthing) and 10mm (for bonding) then why would you need to run them in conduit?

 

[woodbutcher32]

Thanks wirepuller & Tony, Do I need to replace all the switches for Class 11's? and can a cheap pendant be also Class 11? I cant seem to find them anywhere! (except for fancy ones...) the house is currently fitted with MK white pendant sets,


I assume these arent double insulated? Is there a similar alternative?

Cheers

 

[Knobhead]

Nothing wrong with the MK pendants

 

[woodbutcher32]

Cheers Glenn that's just what the inspector said needed doing (he was of course touting for work) fair play we all need to make a living but when he's after £1,600 on a 30k house I'm selling fo my disabled mother then obviously I want the cheapest (but still safe) method of doing this...

as mentioned earlier I'm a Joiner by trade so I'm a little lost with all you sparkys Jargon!

 

[woodbutcher32]

Cheers Tony you're an all round good egg.

 

[GLENNSPARK]

Thanks wirepuller & Tony, Do I need to replace all the switches for Class 11's? and can a cheap pendant be also Class 11? I cant seem to find them anywhere! (except for fancy ones...) the house is currently fitted with MK white pendant sets,
View attachment 8024

I assume these arent double insulated? Is there a similar alternative?

Cheers

The white plastic pendants you can get are class 2.
the white plastic switch fronts you can get are class 2.

 

[GLENNSPARK]

that main earthing conductor will need clipping to the wall though mate....run it nice n straight....down the wall to the rod mate and it will look sound and proffesional....jobs a good un...

 

[SPARTYKUS]

If the gas and the water main are in the same proximity, you can link the two services on that single 10mm cable. However, it's always advisable to run separate main bonding conductors.

There is nothing to stop you running the water bonding cable around the house, attached to the fabric of the house. But it would be sensible to afford it mechanical protection. My choice would be plastic (PVC) conduit.

Just to clear things up a little, ''class 1'' light fittings are light fittings requiring and earth connection, ''Class 11'' light fittings, are fittings that are double insulated and do not require or have an earth connection incorporated within.

Hi Engineer54 - just wondered why (to above bold bit). Not spoiling for a joust, just wondered on your thoughts on why its advisable to run separates. I usually do because it's usually more convenient but also note the pretty picture of an unbroken one in GN8 (but that doesn't happen very often for me) :45:

 

[SPARTYKUS]

Also, wirepuller & OP, I think the RCD is an 80A/30mA so you're 'covered' so to speak.

 

[derek preece]

Just make sure you isolate the installation, i.e. switch off the main switch, if you find you have to disconnect the earthing conductor to fit it in an earthing pit, (check the installation is isolated with a voltage indicator).