EICR code for over rated shower

[captaincaveman]

Hello guys n gals,

Did n EICR other week in a flat where the shower circuit was 40A mcb with RCD protection, 6mm cable. Only about 10M run.
The 8.5kw shower had been replaced by the tenant for a 10.5kw one (old one was still in the cupboard is how I know).
Unusually, the installation supply voltage was 254V - Which I have entered in the report that the supplier should be informed about.
As this brings the present shower down to 41A it is presently operating without issues. However, if the supply voltage was to be bought down to a more suitable level in the future I could see issues arising so I coded it C2.

Just wondered if anyone had a different view?

Ta in reading & hope you're having a fun day

 

[plugsandsparks]

Current through a resistor like shower increases with increased voltage so it would have been worth clamping it just for info, either way, C2 is fair

 

[davesparks]

As this brings the present shower down to 41A it is presently operating without issues. However, if the supply voltage was to be bought down to a more suitable level in the future I could see issues arising so I coded it C2.

No its not, a standard 10.5KW shower is only 10.5KW at 240V, on a 254V supply would draw 46A.

If the supply voltage reduces the current will be reduced.

I agree it should be a C2, not because of 'what might happen in the future' but because it is overloaded now.

 

[buzzlightyear]

which post did i post on about the shower .
me c2 rating of the cable not adequate & rating of the shower
does not comply the manufacturer instructions

 

[SparkyChick]

which post did i post on about the shower .

The duplicate....

me c2 rating of the cable not adequate & rating of the shower
does not comply the manufacturer instructions .

 

[buzzlightyear]

The duplicate.

mirror mirror on the wall .

 

[Pretty Mouth]

Ref C, that 6mm cable could be good for 47A. If so, the remedial work may be as simple as changing the breaker for a 45A or 50A.

 

[buzzlightyear]

Ref C, that 6mm cable could be good for 47A. If so, the remedial work may be as simple as changing the breaker for a 45A or 50A.

Free range, probably buried in plaster tiled or other.

 

[captaincaveman]

Ref C, that 6mm cable could be good for 47A. If so, the remedial work may be as simple as changing the breaker for a 45A or 50A.

I'm never keen on doing that (Mainly because of the amount of burnt out isolators I've had to replace due to bad terminations and the amount of current). Plus off the top o me head I don't think the zs would allow more than 40A.
The landlord wants it swapping back to a 8.5 which I'm happy with

 

[captaincaveman]

No its not, a standard 10.5KW shower is only 10.5KW at 240V, on a 254V supply would draw 46A.

If the supply voltage reduces the current will be reduced.

I agree it should be a C2, not because of 'what might happen in the future' but because it is overloaded now.

Sorry. Yeh, you're right about the 240v. I was thinking 230v. To be fair I was sat waiting for a hospital op so was distracted

 

[Pretty Mouth]

I'm never keen on doing that (Mainly because of the amount of burnt out isolators I've had to replace due to bad terminations and the amount of current). Plus off the top o me head I don't think the zs would allow more than 40A.
The landlord wants it swapping back to a 8.5 which I'm happy with

I take your point on this, although personally see as many burnt out isolators with 10mm as 6mm. The reason presumably being due to the difficulty of terminating 10mm (particularly where stuffed into a 1 gang isolator). I prefer 6mm myself, where I can get away with it, even though it will run warmer.

 

[timhoward]

I take your point on this, although personally see as many burnt out isolators with 10mm as 6mm. The reason presumably being due to the difficulty of terminating 10mm (particularly where stuffed into a 1 gang isolator). I prefer 6mm myself, where I can get away with it, even though it will run warmer.

The simple act of going the extra mile and taking the front off a 2nd time to re-tighten the terminals afterwards would have helped many of them.
(Shower isolators are one of those things that could really do with a re-think.
I've often wondered if they could be made like those old sockets where the wires poke through from the back and tighten on the front, then a case is put over the whole lot.)

 

[SparkyChick]

The simple act of going the extra mile and taking the front off a 2nd time to re-tighten the terminals afterwards would have helped many of them.
(Shower isolators are one of those things that could really do with a re-think.
I've often wondered if they could be made like those old sockets where the wires poke through from the back and tighten on the front, then a case is put over the whole lot.)

If you've never checked out the round Crabtree pull cord ones they are worth a look if you have to use a pull cord, but for toggle switches I totally agree... modern ones are a complete pile of garbage. They used to have twin terminal screws now they have one singular screw made of cheese.

 

[Flanders]

If you've never checked out the round Crabtree pull cord ones they are worth a look if you have to use a pull cord, but for toggle switches I totally agree... modern ones are a complete pile of garbage. They used to have twin terminal screws now they have one singular screw made of cheese.

There the only shower pull cords I will ever use. worth the Money an so much easier to install

 

[Pretty Mouth]

The scolmore pull cord isolators are good too, both click mode (round) and click polar (square) have twin terminal screws. For wall mounted isolator, the crabtree cooker switches are the ones I prefer, again having twin screws.