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S

sparkyork

Hi all, not posted for a while so her goes...

tomorrow im installing 30m sq of loose electric underfloor heating cable.

im not new to installing the stuff but do much prefer the matt style system.

With it been such a big area I want to make sure it doesn't start lifting when it's sat for a few days before it gets self levelled over the top.

I've got a ck telecoms cable style staple gun and I'm thinking do using this as it's into tile backer board so shouldn't squeeze to hard on the cable, and I'd consider ufh cable to be stronger than bt cable?

thoughts or experiences appreciated

cheers

rich
 
The wet U/F systems DO work,but ONLY when as part of a properties construction,the bulk of which being hi-spec,well fitted insulation.

These systems succeed or fail,on the insulation/ventilation methods,and to skimp on those,is to set the U/F up,for a failure.

So many times,i have seen big money,top spec U/F being installed,with no thought or expense,directed to the rest of the building,and as for the other trades attitude to the subject of insulation...don't get me started...we are 30 years behind other european builders.

As a point of interest,my folks house,built in 1963,was constructed with "state of the art" electric U/F downstairs,in concrete floors.

It still functions,is efficient,and does not cost the earth (off peak timer),we had an open coal fire downstairs,and no heating upstairs till was in my teens.......nobody lost extremities....:icon12:

I'm sure you are right in many respects, i just wonder how these systems compare on efficiency and in economical terms with conventional boiler/radiator systems especially with the newer high efficiently radiators?

My doubts lays in time it takes to heat a floor area that in turn then heats a living area to a comfortable level. I just can't see how they can realistically compare with a conventional system. But as i say i have no experience whatsoever of underfloor heating systems ...apart from staying at guest house in Norway for a few days, and i can't say i was or ever felt cold during that stay...
 
Yeah I always test the kits three times usually, before fitting, after laying, after tiler.
The kits we've been using on a large old hall are made by varme, the areas at the moment are all square so would of much preferred the matt version.
Only managed to get one drum down 150m, looking at the remaining area which is 30m sq, it's looking like the calculations might be out slightly! I reckon I may end up been 20-30 m short maybe, we'll see tomorrow.
The manufacturers instructions is basically area divided by total length of cables so 30 / 430 which gave me just under 70mm spacing with a 40 mm perimeter off the wall. Can see me modifying today's work tomorrow lol
 
To be fair in the two other rooms we've done, the room its self did become very warm.
There are two types that I know of; feet warmer or space heating, the latter been what we used. Heating is laid on thermal board to aid heat going the right way. So it does work when applied properly
 
talking about scousers. recent advice from the civil aviation authority is always to fly with a scouse pilot, as a scouse pilot would never rip up a sick note and then go to work.
 
Not having any experience of underfloor electric heating installations, do these systems work very well?? How do they compare with say a conventional boiler/radiator system or even a hot water (wet) underfloor heating system. Are they considered as economical heating system??

Just asking as a matter of interest/curiosity really...

Electric systems which are sold as tile warming systems do exactly what they say on the tin.

The old fashioned system which connected to eco7 and turned the floor in to one big storage heater also worked quite well.

The electric systems which are buried in the screed and intended to heat the room are a bit on the hopeless side.
 
I believe many of the U/F systems,fitted badly or without all that goes with them,are responsible for the "bad press".

The same has happened in the PV job,where hundreds of badly fitted/assessed systems,are causing issues to owners,second owners and follow up repairers,with companies vanished and not interested. These folk will not be recommending any future installs,just cleaning out the broken tiles from their gutters each Autumn...

Some of the test houses,in more enlightened European states,have been set up to be heated with one single lamp...Admittedly,the use and additional equipment needed to achieve this is onerous,but nevertheless,possible.

If you are ever weary of buying 100mm Kingspan,at 30 squid a sheet...then get two cups of hot tea,make a small box from your offcuts,put both cups in the garden,one in the box.

30 minutes later,one is undrinkable,the other burns your lips! Simple :icon12:
 

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