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Andy78

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I really need some help in a project I have become involved in wiring a lived on boat. It's something I have not done before or anything remotely similar so I'm well out of my comfort and confidence zone.
I'm really struggling finding a definite guide as to the correct regulations I need to be following or even any best practice guides. If anyone can offer any experienced advice in this field I would be most grateful, even a finger pointing in the right direction would be great.
I'll refrain from posting detailed info about the job until an experienced mind pops along as it might be a bit much.
 
Hi, love the boat. If you can afford to do it suggest using tinned marine cable everywhere but if money is tight suggest for any places that will be inaccessable in the future use better cable. Never used this company but I’m sure they would be able to provide advise Marine Grade Tinned Cable 30M - 2 - https://boatelectricals.co.uk/marine-grade-tinned-cable-30m-2/
Hope it helps.

Thanks very much for that. Budget is pretty much non existent on the job, bit of a complex situation but I'll be providing materials and labour FOC for now.
I am planning to make all concealed cable runs rewire-able through containment of some sort depending on situation so it may be something to upgrade in the future.
 
I installed the usual 12v/gas fridges in the past...they run on either, obviously, with options to run them off 240v and 24v. If you have 24v for starter motors and windlass then you need some pretty heavy battery cable running there, albeit the final terminations to the starters and windlass are usually about 4 or 6mm, and often less, for the final 300mm. However, you have options to tap off these as you head from battery compartment to the bow where the windlass is...
personally, leave those big boys alone, to do their job. Separate starting batteries and domestic batteries, with an extra set for specific loads such as radio/electronics. The relatively small spaces on board mean that LEDs are just amazing for internal lighting, rather than the old-fashioned 12v bc bulbs from Halfords which drain those batteries rapidly!
My last boat had all lighting and auxiliary circuits run in 4mm singles in custom-made teak conduits! Ah, those craftsmen! Beautiful teak channels, with brass screws every 15cm, varnished and unobtrusive, simply works of art! Blended in with the rest of the interior, but even in the underseat lockers, they used the same. Anyway, I digress...modern electronics and LED lighting fed initially by 4mm singles, no creep, plenty scope to tee-off. Clearly, I'm not advocating teak channels, but the principle is the same...fine stranded absorbs moisture, plus for the relatively short runs, solid conductors don't break the bank.
Just saying what worked for me...and that boat is still sailing, 40 years on.
 
Started ripping out the wiring yesterday. What a mess the whole place is. If anything could have been bodged on this craft it has been.
[ElectriciansForums.net] electrical installation on a floating dwelling
[ElectriciansForums.net] electrical installation on a floating dwelling
 
You were right the first time... "ARE". The noun, slots, is plural.

When deciding whether to use is or are, look at whether the noun is plural or singular. If the noun is singular, use is. If it is plural or there is more than one noun, use are.
 
I think 'none' is a word in itself rather than a contraction. This is why it doesn't need an apostrophe.
 

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Andy78

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If you're a qualified, trainee, or retired electrician - Which country is it that your work will be / is / was aimed at?
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Practising Electrician (Qualified - Domestic or Commercial etc)

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