Enlarging downlight holes?

[Nicebloke]

I know this is something we all come across and in the past when I have needed to enlarge downlight holes, I've used a small plasterboard cutter and even a file. I have about 10 downlight holes to enlarge on an upcoming job so wondered if there is an easier way?

 

[Delboybully]

Oh wait? It's a specially made product? Just stuff the smaller sized hole saw through over the pilot bit of the larger hole saw.
Just saved a few people an arm and a leg for these specially designed products.

It's not expensive, lasts for ages,mine is 5 years old and used loads and does the full range from 16mm up to whatever the max size of holessaw is available. No brainier

 

[D00DY_T00DY]

It's not expensive, lasts for ages,mine is 5 years old and used loads and does the full range from 16mm up to whatever the max size of holessaw is available. No brainier

Didn't realise it was just the Arbor(should probably learn to read) not bad actually, seems to have two different sized threads though? How does that work then? Also I see no locking mechanism so can see the hole saw getting snagged a fair bit of the time lol

 

[Delboybully]

Didn't realise it was just the Arbor(should probably learn to read) not bad actually, seems to have two different sized threads though? How does that work then? Also I see no locking mechanism so can see the hole saw getting snagged a fair bit of the time lol

The 2 thread sizes are for large or small existing hole sizes. You put new hole size holesaw onto existing holesaw thread. Remove pilot drill and replace with oops Arbor with holesaw of existing size. Works a treat.

 

[D00DY_T00DY]

The 2 thread sizes are for large or small existing hole sizes. You put new hole size holesaw onto existing holesaw thread. Remove pilot drill and replace with oops Arbor with holesaw of existing size. Works a treat.

Ah so the the threads actually large enough for both hole saws. When I looked at it I thought you needed your new hole size to take a large Arbor and the smaller Arbor for the existing hole.

Seems like a good product actually. *ahem* sponsor me starrett *ahem*

 

[Phil Thompson]

I always use the holesaw for the existing fitting as the guide/arbor by placing it inside the holesaw for the replacement fitting. Keeps everything centred as it was.

 

[telectrix]

none of you lot never heard of a hammer?

 

[Flanders]

I would say yours was the opposite of right lol, I have used it and it can be done, but it can still mark the plasterboard if not done correctly.........if you use MY method you'll get a perfect hole in the centre with no hassles lol ;-)

How would that work if you already had a hole i thought the center drill holds the cutter in place? , I have a,ways used the whole cutter inside a whole cutter method and never had a problem I traped my fingers a few ti e on thems springs though

 

[Hellmooth]

How would that work if you already had a hole i thought the center drill holds the cutter in place? , I have a,ways used the whole cutter inside a whole cutter method and never had a problem I traped my fingers a few ti e on thems springs though

Sorry hadn't realised I wasn't logged in so just got this!

No the plastic base would be touching the ceiling keeping it in place.

 

[Flanders]

Sorry hadn't realised I wasn't logged in so just got this!

No the plastic base would be touching the ceiling keeping it in place.

Ok i thought that was just to collect the dust , have you done this in pratice , i just thought it would not have enough grip to hold it in place ?

 

[Richard Burns]

Ok i thought that was just to collect the dust , have you done this in practice , I just thought it would not have enough grip to hold it in place ?

I have not tried to use it without a central hole but the cover very definitely provides stability to the cutter as I tried a 300mm hole without the cover and it was impossible.
I think if you were to run at high speed and very low pressure it would work.

I just tend to spin one edge of a hole saw gently into the plasterboard at the right place very lightly and slowly, slowly straighten up to cut a bigger hole.

 

[Flanders]

I have not tried to use it without a central hole but the cover very definitely provides stability to the cutter as I tried a 300mm hole without the cover and it was impossible.
I think if you were to run at high speed and very low pressure it would work.

I just tend to spin one edge of a hole saw gently into the plasterboard at the right place very lightly and slowly, slowly straighten up to cut a bigger hole.

Yes i used to do it like that but found the 2 hole cutter way the best , mind you i have used one of those hole cutters with the cover years ago and they are are good a containing the dust