failing shower switches | Page 3 | on ElectriciansForums

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P

pushrod

Had a phone call from someone whose cord pull shower switch had failed 3 times in a year (which they then replaced) and no other problems other than it failing again.
Not seen it yet, but thinking they were buying cheap poor quality switches (possibly under rated), poor/loose terminations maybe overcrowded overly bent wires causing overheating. Am i forgetting anything obvious?
 
Hey guys i am new to this forum so take it easy on me!! Why not try and switch the shower through a contactor and RCBO? You only need a 10 amp pull cord to energise the coil. Its a bit more work at the CU but its a far better job.
 
Not just shower switches, I had to go back and replace a ceiling mounted pump switch the other day. Obviously not a current issue so I took the thing apart. Mechanism was full of stuff from the loft, not suitcases and old 45's, dust and woodlice etc. Think I'll be putting a gob of firecryl in the hole from now on.
 
When you fit the switch push it up as if your going to screw it back . Then slightly pull it back down give the terminations a tighten then screw back as normal. As mentioned due to the size and stiffness of the cables they tend to loosen. Any time I've attended a job like yours it's been loose connection and as mentioned usually on the neutral.
 
nuetral has return path of current hence holding higher load , loose connections fitted amateurish = burned out pullcord

How much higher is the current in the neutral conductor compared to the current in the live conductor in a shower circuit? Daz
 

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