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Darpar

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Hi. Random question, but in our utility room we have an extraction fan like what is normally found in a bathroom. Currently doesn't come on with the light or anything like the bathroom one. It has its own independent isolator switch which leaves the fan on or off continuously. Does this have to be an 'isolator' switch, or could it be changed to a normal light switch type instead? Or a switch with a light to show it is turned on? Thanks
 
I have already given you a link with a DP MK switch without a fuse.


Didn't you like my suggestion?
Your existing switch doesn't have a fuse, why do you think you now need one?

Use a fused DP FCU if you like.
You can change the fuse in there for whatever value is appropriate, but it's not necessary for a fan on a lighting circuit.
I did like your suggestion, and purchased the link you sent. However the wife doesn't like the fact that the switch is towards the top of the plate and the light switch is in the centre of the plate. Don't ask!! So the idea was if we got a fuse switch then it isn't as bad the switch being at the top!
 
Can I point out to you that the thickness and look of a switched fused spur or D.P. switch is different to the light plate switch .
Have realosed this today when looking at the light switch and the dp switch side by side. The thickness and look is very different!
Life's too short mate.
Tell me about it!! She won't accept that answer though haha
 
Right, here's your answer - replace both switches with the 20A suggested previously. Perfect match. You're welcome
 
See my post No.23 I also note that the k.o. back boxes are only 16mm therefore you may struggle with depth using D.P./switched fused spur.

Apologies if you've already suggested 2 x 20A units. There's that many bloody posts about a bloody light switch being slightly different I've lost the will to read them all :)
 
Seriously though.

Don't use MK. Use GET Ultimate, they have a similar look to MK.
This is the 20A DP switch. Use one for the fan and another for the light.

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