So just to clear a few things up, I work with 10 sparks, all have different answers to these questions.
1. When upgrading a fuse board is it mandatory to upgrade the gas/water bonding to 10mm
2. When upgrading a fuse board is it mandatory to install smoke alarms?
3. When rewiring / new build install, am I right in saying you need a smoke on each floor and a heat in the kitchen (all interlinked).
4. Kitchens, Do I need a fuse spur for washer, dryer, fridge, extractor etc (This one got them arguing).
5. Kitchens, whats the most popular / easy way (new dwellings) wiring cookers / hobs (45A switch behind oven housing? With a socket on for gas in future).
6. Are you allowed sockets / cooker switches in kitchen cupboards
If you want facts rather than opinions you'd be better of reading the appropriate building reg, rather than getting a bunch of stranger's opinions
The answer will still be no, you don't need to install any fire detection on a straightforward rewire.
If it is part of a larger job which involves planning permission or building notice then it may well be that fire detection will need to be installed.
Further to this, if ten electricians cant agree on "a few easy ones" I suggest you buy a regs books between you all and also look at some building regs .... lol
Give him a slap then... as long as its easily accessible, not prone to been knocked on/off and fixed to a solid part of the cupboard (not the flimsy back panels) then it ok... Ideal position is up front top position - they are mainly just for isolation purposes for appliance removal so this can be relaxed a bit...
The cooker isolation should be readily accessable for isolation in case of emergency like fire where getting to the cooker controls would be dangerous... again kitchen design lends a hand into what could be allowed and what not, its a little bit down to risk assessment and interpretation of accessible.
Give him a slap then... as long as its easily accessible, not prone to been knocked on/off and fixed to a solid part of the cupboard (not the flimsy back panels) then it ok... Ideal position is up front top position - they are mainly just for isolation purposes for appliance removal so this can be relaxed a bit...
The cooker isolation should be readily accessable for isolation in case of emergency like fire where getting to the cooker controls would be dangerous... again kitchen design lends a hand into what could be allowed and what not, its a little bit down to risk assessment and interpretation of accessible.
I always try to install isolates with a maximum of 2000mm from the cooker but not less than 600mm (or was it 300mm). Don't think it's a specific reg, it's just good practice. No body could say it's right or wrong but it's just good practice and in the absence of regulations that's the next best thing in my opinion.
When working on unoccupied new domestic dwellings.....regulations & approved document need to be followed. On a rewire, the owner will state what he requires, he owns the property. On any extension or alteration BC will state or compromise requirements needed.
The minimum permitted here for new builds is a Grade D Category LD2 system, which means that you also need a smoke alarm in living rooms. Not sure about England though.
Some people think that a kitchen cupboard is only temporary. I think the IET guide to the buiding regs recommends that they should be fixed to the "fabric of the building".
However gas hobs and kitchen sinks are fitted into the "temporary" worktops and people tend to not just rip them out without following some sort of isolation procedure, so I don't see why electrics are any different.
As an aside, I've just removed some sockets from a "solid" wall so it could be knocked down. Don't really see any difference between that and accessories mounted on a kitchen / shed / wooden garage. Common sense should prevail.
That presumably is for England and Wales only. Technical Booklet E (Fire Safety) for the Building Regulations here states (for dwellings less than 200m^2):
"2.23 A dwellinghouse should be provided with either -
(a) smoke alarms complying with BS 5446-1 and a heat alarm or alarms complying with BS 5446-2 installed in accordance with paragraphs 2.25 to 2.33; or
(b) an automatic fire detection and fire alarm system complying with BS 5839-6 of at least Grade D Category LD2 standard including a smoke alarm or alarms in the principal habitable room and a heat alarm or alarms in every kitchen."
I won't type out 2.25 to 2.33 (word wrap won't work properly copying the text) but it basically reiterates the BS 5839-6 requirements.
BS 5839: Pt.6: 2013 recommends that a new-build property consisting of no more than 3 floors (less than 200sqm per floor)) should be fitted with a Grade D, LD2 system. Building Regulations in England, Wales & Scotland recommend that BS 5839: Pt.6 should be followed but, as a minimum, a Grade D, LD3 system should be installed. Building Regulations in Northern Ireland require a Grade D, LD2 system to be installed, with smoke alarms fitted in the escape routes and the main living room and a heat alarm in the kitchen.
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