Fire hoods on recessed lights | Page 2 | on ElectriciansForums

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I thought it was if any dwelling above you needed to retain the fire integrity of the ceiling

As electricians we can not be responsible to determine this surely it a building regs issue, I fit fire rated models as a matter of course now though with LED lamps if possible. LED's have a lower heat output and save money after the original install cost so IMO safer and more Energy efficient.
 
i have just fitted 12 fire rated, with LEDs, in a bedroom fo a client. because the fire rated fittings are so much deeper than non fire rated, i spent ove an hour pulling out insulation so as to make room for the fittings. bloody fibreglass itchy snot, might save a few quid on the heating bills: what about the cost of flood damage when the plumber's junk in the attic freezes and thaws?
 
What does it say Henry and where can i find the document. Regards
http://www.esc.org.uk/fileadmin/use...s/Downlighter_trade-_web_ready-_July_2012.pdf
Lets assume you are on a computer ... we like to try help anyway we can but at least try a little harder yourself before asking ....google is an amazing world of info'.... i found it on the first search near the top of the list.... come adammid i hope you show more intenuity at work.:yes:

Once you have read through it - it gives the impression that you must maintain the fire rating of any material you recess into so it would thus imply that a suitable fire rated fitting be used or the use of alternatives like hoods etc where the fitting dosn't give fire protection in all circumstances of which i agree and this is why i always fit fire rated fittings in all circumstances.
 
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fire hoods. turn them right side up. fill with a good fisons product, grow cannabis seeds.
 
Fire hoods are installed to maintain the fire rating on the roof/ceiling as if a hole was never there. Any hole larger then 50mm needs provisions put into place to maintain the fire integrity of the building structure
 
1.2.9 page 57 and 1.3.4 of the building regs basically back up high towers comments, these are recommendations not set in stone, if you read it properly it is guidlines, however good practise to use fire rated lights IMO
 
what a lot of posters are missing is the fact that a sinle occupancy dwelling ( i.e. 1 family ) is a single fire compartment and as such does not require fire rated reinstatement of ceilings between rooms and floors except in the case of an integral garage, which is classed as a separate fire compartment.
 
Agreed.

I always understood it to mean that fire rated were only necessary if in the ceiling of a property which had a property above.

I'm not sure how it works with older properties though. I live in a flat with a concrete floor separating me from the flat below. The 6" of concrete is the fire barrier as I understand it, not the plasterboard that the person downstairs has on their ceiling. Don't see why he'd need fire rated downlighters or hoods.
 
I too would rather fit fire rated (and have done). Screwfix do a contractor pack of ten for about £70, if I remember right. I find them simpler and tidier to use myself and see fire hoods as only necessary if you have insulation anywhere nearby.
 
To be honest I fit the fire rated ones just for simplicity. Can't be bothered with faffing with the ones which are just a piece of metal, some springs and a connector.
 
I too would rather fit fire rated (and have done). Screwfix do a contractor pack of ten for about £70, if I remember right. I find them simpler and tidier to use myself and see fire hoods as only necessary if you have insulation anywhere nearby.

Clearly you are not aware of the reasons for having fire hoods or fire rated fittings .... what and where the insulation is has nothing to do with this debate... if a fire happens in the room that the fittings are in then the fittings should be able to withstand the same fire rating as the material they are cut into i.e. if through plasterboard which give approx 20mins fire protection then the fitting should also achieve the same fire rating, i may have read your post wrong as its ambiguous but alot of modern fittings allow insulation to cover them.
 
I agree Dark Wood, I would still like to know what it ACTUALLY says in the regs, how about if you were pricing a big job, a few quid on every light could make all the difference and if they aren't required then you could easily lose out on the job.

Have you got a copy and could you read them?
 

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