fire hoods or led bulbs

[i=p/u]

other day i was putting in spotlights as youl know if you keep tabs on me, yes i can make a post drag on,

anyway on my last two spotlights there is a waste pipe which comes about 15mm over the whole, i can still get spotlights in but are very close and gu10 50W bulbs which get very hot,

do you reckon flexible fire hoods would solve this or change bulbs to led 4W or something. and someone had the cheek to say im a cowboy this job is professionaly done lol .

where would i get flexible fire hoods as my local cef dont stock them and never heqard of them or wago's.... thanks AGAIN

 

[Electricalserv]

other day i was putting in spotlights as youl know if you keep tabs on me, yes i can make a post drag on,

anyway on my last two spotlights there is a waste pipe which comes about 15mm over the whole, i can still get spotlights in but are very close and gu10 50W bulbs which get very hot,

do you reckon flexible fire hoods would solve this or change bulbs to led 4W or something. and someone had the cheek to say im a cowboy this job is professionaly done lol .

where would i get flexible fire hoods as my local cef dont stock them and never heqard of them or wago's.... thanks AGAIN

Hahaha mate I was jokeing!! be careful, you might get me banned. I'm being monitored. LMAO

 

[Dunc]

Personally i would move the light fitting. I would almost bracket it in the proximity to other services and influences for the reason for moving it. For example, if the pipe leaks the light will become very wet very quickly.

As a side note, i would always recommend using fire rated recessed lights as standard, far easier to fit and more likely to guarantee the integrity of the fire compartment.

 

[i=p/u]

cant be moved now, its just alot of heat of gu10 50W so im thinking change to led 4W, far less heat maybe flexible fire hood aswell,

any more takers on this?

have another job already , yes fitting downlights,how far do you move insulation away from downlights, ??? i was thinking of using fire rated one for this job as attic above with insulation

 

[Amp David]

Fire hoods aren't a means of stopping any heat rising and damaging anything above, they are to reinstate the fire rating of the ceiling and prevent the spread of fire.

I'd be using the LED lamps and if 100% needed the hoods too. Some will say hoods all the time though.

As regards moving the insulation away from the fittings on the other job, tend to stick with the manufacturers instructions and recommendations.

 

[Octopus]

4W LED's (IMHO) will not be as bright as 50W GU10's - you need at least 7W and beware that the "light" will look different.

 

[truckster]

Depends on the LED and the reflector angle, I have fitted 4 watt ones sde by side with 50w halogens and there is hardly any difference.

 

[telectrix]

GU10 fittings with 4watt or 5watt LED lamps every time. insulation about 6" clearance all round each fitting and none above fitting.

 

[davelerave]

yes the hoods and fire rated fittings maintain the fire barrier (regardless of bulb type)

the 'capped F' fittings are suitable for covering with thermal insulation

 

[i=p/u]

cheers lads its either spotslights £3.50 and led 4Wbulbs£10.00 = £13.50 or fire rated fiitings for £12.00

 

[cheeky_blue]

I get these from my local wholesaler for about 8quid with a 50W halogen
They are a doddle to install.
Knightsbridge Fire Rated Energy Efficent Downlights

 

[Adam W]

I'd go for LEDs and fire rated fittings anyway; LED GU10s have been developed an insane amount in the last couple of years to the extent you can't tell the difference between them and halogen, apart from the electricity bill.
As mentioned ideally you should increase the distance between the fitting and the pipe - you might be installing LEDs but the client might change them for halogen at a later date.

 

[andrew692003]

Can't believe nobody's mentioned clay plant pots yet! ;-)

 

[i=p/u]

warm white is most popular????????? and

 

[Dunc]

As mentioned ideally you should increase the distance between the fitting and the pipe - you might be installing LEDs but the client might change them for halogen at a later date.

This is exactly the point I was making in the beginning of this thread. I only feel the use of LEDs in situations where heat build up is a problem is acceptable if the fitting incorporates a non changeable lamp. An example being the Halers fittings or alternatively a CFL fitting incorporating a GZ10 lamp holder which will not permit a standard halogen lamp to be fitted. In my opinion all installations should be made to be fool proof to avoid problems in the future. The OP has already managed to drill through the waste pipe and although I'm sure it'd make amusing reading I wouldn't want to learn that a few years down the line a halogen lamp was fitted as the customer 'didn't like the harsh LED lamp' and subsequently filled the kitchen with feaces after a hole was melted through said waste pipe. It's your liability insurance at the end of the day but I certainly wouldn't just pop an LED lamp in as a quick fix. Next time you do some recessed lights, find yourself an old terminal screwdriver with a nice long shank (atleast 6 inches long) and strip the insulation off it. Once you've marked your light positions push the screwdriver through the plasterboard at the centre point to see if there is anything directly above where your light is going. If you don't hit anything do the same 4 more times 30-40mm (depending on the size of the fitting) from the centre on all sides. If you push it in at 45degress to the plasterboard as well you can feel for joists (and pipes) and hopefully avoid hitting anything next time. Worst case, if the fitting has to be moved, you'll have a couple of little holes to fill and a pencil mark to hide rather then a 70 odd mm hole! As a final note I'd like to point out that the fittings instructions will often state that there should be nothing within 50-75mm of the top of the fitting. Not adhering to manufacturers instructions is a breach of the regulations and would certainly not go down well with your insurance company if the worst was to occur.