Flexicom 30cx - H/W but no C/H

[sparky05084]

Hi PEG

So, if I were to fit a link from the perm live on the plug to F would that achieve the bypass you speak of?

Sorry, yes my level of skill is quite limited however, I 'm more than willing to learn and try to fix this if I of course, can.

I'd be massively grateful if you could tell me if my thinking above is correct and what exactly I'm looking for to prove if the control side is faulty.

Thanks

 

[PEG]

Hi, we had a thread running,lately,where we were discussing the risks and pitfalls,of giving electrical advice,to DIY and non-professional posters.
I copped for a bit of stick,for pointing out the responsibility of members,in encouraging others to do work,beyond their capabilities...

The manual posted,has a wiring diagram,which shows the basic connections for power,control,and it shows the frost stat inclusion.

If you have linked out the controls already,and the boiler is set to run,according to the scrolled set-ups,it sounds like an internal fault.

 

[PEG]

Hi PEG

So, if I were to fit a link from the perm live on the plug to F would that achieve the bypass you speak of?

Sorry, yes my level of skill is quite limited however, I 'm more than willing to learn and try to fix this if I of course, can.

I'd be massively grateful if you could tell me if my thinking above is correct and what exactly I'm looking for to prove if the control side is faulty.

Thanks

Just a thought,the boiler has fault codes and also,state codes,and if you have a read of the manual,you may be able to bring up what state it is in,and scroll through what position,the various micro switches are in, This may give an indication of a stuck diverter,etc.

If this function is not available,maybe the board is faulty.

 

[sparky05084]

Hi mate.

Listen, I do appreciate your point regards technical information and the fact that yes, it may come across your providing it scott free to someone whom is not up to speed with boilers or skilled. I'm not after homework or to have my hand held. I'm just in a panic here and thought no harm in asking.

That being said, I do thank you for at least taking the time to explain your thoughts.

I reckon theres either a fault with the PCB or it's a signal issue between controls and PCB interface. As you said, internally.

The giveaway to me is the fact holding the MODE button displays heating as 'off' as well as the - & + buttons not responding.

I will link out the feed onto the stat connection in the plug to see if I can get some heat on just using the boiler itself with no external demand.

I'll also double, treble check continuity on the 3 core + earth.

If that fails then I fear as you said, I'll end up getting an engineer. So much for my first house :/

 

[Last plumber]

I fear as you said, I'll end up getting an engineer in

Have you tried dropping the pressure yet ?

 

[Last plumber]

Take it down to 1.2 bar ish and try linking L to R.
If there's no joy, let me know and I will think again.

 

[sparky05084]

Hi

I took it down to 1.2ish yes. I'm going back tonight (clothed up to the max layers and all!!) to try the link out method.

So I'm not jumping between forums (sorry phone being a pain in the **** and closing tabs), it's worth stating as per other chaps advice, if I hold MODE for 2 secs approx or less, nothing happens.

Don't quite get the hold then jab button method but I'll give it a shot.

I still cannot understand why the heating text says OFF. The rad symbol flashes for a few secs then reverts to water tap symbol.

Incidentally, is there a way to change your username on the other forum? I deffo put an alias in and it looks to me (please kindly confirm) my full friggin' name is on that thread.

Got me paranoid now ha ha.

 

[Last plumber]

Hi

I took it down to 1.2ish yes. I'm going back tonight (clothed up to the max layers and all!!) to try the link out method.

So I'm not jumping between forums (sorry phone being a pain in the **** and closing tabs), it's worth stating as per other chaps advice, if I hold MODE for 2 secs approx or less, nothing happens.

Don't quite get the hold then jab button method but I'll give it a shot.

I still cannot understand why the heating text says OFF. The rad symbol flashes for a few secs then reverts to water tap symbol.

Incidentally, is there a way to change your username on the other forum? I deffo put an alias in and it looks to me (please kindly confirm) my full friggin' name is on that thread.

Got me paranoid now ha ha.

I don't know. When I joined here It just accepted my user name from over there. @Corbs will probably know tbh.

Are there no fault codes?
Have you tried linking L-R since you took the pressure down?

 

[sparky05084]

Are there no fault codes?
Have you tried linking L-R since you took the pressure down?

There doesn't seem to be any F codes no. However I do recall a 5. 30.

Think this has something to do with the boiler asking for an external demand from a 230v source.

I'm setting off in a bit to the property to have one last stab at this. I will link out L-R and check the pressure again

I'll post back the results. Fingers crossed.

 

[sparky05084]

Right then. I've an update. I'm convinced now this is an internal controller issue as the only way to get the heating to work is (as previously suggested) link L - F.

Doing L-R did nothing. I'm not very familiar with the cycles but I can only best describe it as a 3 - 4 min loop of the pump circulating the heat around the circuit and reaching a max of 40C on the LCD.

Boiler would shut down, go through the motions then rinse, repeat. Took the chill off the house but only slightly. Rads barely even warm to the touch. Incidentally, this is no real fix as the cycles were not reliable (halted intermittently and could just hear fan for ages) so had to switch spur off/on to restart process. Proper weird.

It's evideny clear now the C/H in this property has not been checked or run for literally....months.

I also realised when NOT connected up this way, I can't with the mode button even manipulate or adjust the HW temp. Again just to clarify, the - & + do nothing.

If I hold mode for 2 seconds, nothing happens. If I hold for 5 secs, if I'm lucky, the LCD will greet me with the tell tale flashing rad symbol but with 'off'above it.

Opening a tap and even then, can't adjust the temp.

Also, the status codes were such as S30, S31, S97. No F codes present.

I've checked all the connection thrice and there's no signs off anything missing or loose.

Soooooooo, I reckon it's a new PCB?

Does the above make any sense and have I got that right?

I do hope I've cleared things up and thanks for everyones advice. I just want this stupid boiler working. I swear this thing is the Devils offspring and it's taking the **** out of me!

 

[sparky05084]

^^^
Can't get this to change

 

[Last plumber]

View attachment 40649

^^^
Can't get this to change

The behaviour from the L-F link is the frost activation ! that's why it only warms.
You said earlier that pressing the mode button brings up a rad symbol with off flashing. When you get that you use the + button to raise the temp. Take it up to 82 (or whatever the MAX is set to), and try it then. You could also try removing the 240V on R and linking out the 24v-0v on ebus side as 123 (I think) said earlier.

What does the display say? I know you said no fault codes but there should be a status code or something on it.

Start again with the reset button. Middle beneath screen.

 

[sparky05084]

Hi

Sorry if there's any confusion. Please let me explain. On the display, it is the rad symbol that flashes and the 'off' text that stays solid.

There is no way during this process to adjust the C/H temp with the + button. It simply reverts back to the H/W demand with the tap symbol and temp on display. The button is very temperamental and sometimes you have to jam it in hard (pardon the rude pun) to get it to register a press.

In other words, I cannot set the heating via the display at all.

You could also try removing the 240V on R and linking out the 24v-0v on ebus side as 123 (I think) said earlier.

What does the display say? I know you said no fault codes but there should be a status code or something on it.

Start again with the reset button. Middle beneath screen.

I've tried all this and pressed the reset button so many times now. Most of the time the status code is S30 or S31. (check external controls and check C/H setpoint).

My only other option and this is probably my absolute last resort or Ace card is to reference the boiler and install an 'external control' like the Honeywell CM927.

This by rights, should satisfy the boiler looking for a demand from an external 230V source.

However, I'm still properly confused why you can't over ride the boiler without an external control and just control the heating from the boiler itself.

This is what points me to controller or internal failure. Remember, I can't even adjust H/W temp. What does that say?

 

[Toneyz]

Sorry I didn't ask before is this one of those programmers that you insert into the boiler panel (optional ).I would of spoke to the boiler manufactures by now they may state what the problem is. If it is this inserted programmer removing it may revert back to standard stat operation only. Just looked at manual programmer/controls come as part of boiler, however it may be as simple as this control panel being replaced.

 

[sparky05084]

I don't think that applies to this particular boiler mate. There's a linked ribbon cable from the main PCB to the boiler fascia PCB.

I have checked incidentally that all the ribbon cable ect are sound and no 'links' if any are missing. Hope that eliminates another possible question.

There doesn't look as if there's a fitment option into the panel itself.

Speaking of the manufacturer I rang Glow Worm's technical helpline today. I was in the queue for nearly 20 mins. I gave up in the end I have very limited time at work. I will try again tomorrow.