Fuse too big on fridge

[John-SJW]

A small under counter AEG fridge. Instructions say it is fitted with a 13A fuse in the plug. Also states it must be replaced by a 13A fuse. The fridge is drawing 0.32 amps. A 13A fuse is ridiculously oversized. If having a mcb or RCBO at the CU for just the fridge, a 1.00mm cable can be run on a radial for it.

The instructions do say that a qualified or competent electrician must fit the appliance, so a get out for them. If the electrician say 3A will do then that is that I suppose. Do many ignore these types of instructions and say insert a 3A fuse in the plug? Safer.

 

[John-SJW]

Have a look at Table 52.3 of the BBB and see why this statement is incorrect.

I am making a point of the low current draw.

 

[John-SJW]

Fuse protects cable, just to happens protect appliance aswell

A low fuse protects better and safer. I have seen many innards of burnt out appliances that would have blew a lower rated fuse before they gave problems, giving greater protection.

Regarding surge, all fuses have a surge factor built in. That is a 6A fuse can take way over 6A on surge and not blow. A sustained say 8A it will blow.

 

[snowhead]

I tested the surge with an amp clamp that keeps the peak reading. It never got to 1A. With age, say it gets to a 3A surge. 6A still is a massive margin.

Is that with the fridge in a warm kitchen and turning it Off then back On within a few minutes?

Try putting the fridge in a conservatory or outbuilding leave it off for week in the middle of winter and then switch it on and check the switch on current.

Manufacturers have got years of experience and probably miilions of hours in test and development, if they say 13amp is needed, I'm sure they know best.
They can't write instructions for specific circumstances they have to be for worst case.

 

[John-SJW]

I have a 800w toaster. It draws 3.2 amps. It came with 13A fuse. I replaced it with a 6A fuse. For four years it has not blown the fuse. If the 6A fuse starts to blow then the appliance is in its old age, or defective, needing to be replaced, or fixed, before any serious safety problems arise.

 

[John-SJW]

They can't write instructions for specific circumstances they have to be for worst case.

That is one of my prime points. Use electrical training and knowledge then apply it, using common sense.

 

[DPG]

BS1363 has standardised on 3A and 13A as values of fuses. There's no saying you can't still use the other 'inbeeteen' values, but those 2 satisfy any electrical products fitted with 13A plugs.

 

[John-SJW]

BS1363 has standardised on 3A and 13A as values of fuses. There's no saying you can't still use the other 'inbeeteen' values, but those 2 satisfy any electrical products fitted with 13A plugs.

3A and 13A is ballpark. The instructions that say a competent electrician, is their get out clause, handing it over to the installer.

The lower the fuse the greater the safety factor.

 

[DPG]

3A and 13A is ballpark. The instructions that say a competent electrician, is their get out clause, handing it over to the installer.

No, the regulations - I'm not talking about manufacturer's instructions.

 

[John-SJW]

No, the regulations - I'm not talking about manufacturer's instructions.

Where in the regs is that it only falls onto two fuse values? Bare in mind British Standards is only advisory, not mandatory.

 

[John-SJW]

BS1363 has standardised on 3A and 13A as values of fuses.

In table lamps plugged into 13A sockets, I put in 1A fuses. I am saying use common sense, not just go by what they all do, or just follow some cover-all reg.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

Where are you getting these 6A plug fuses? 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 10 and 13 are the ratings I know of.

This discussion is about domestic appliances made to recognised standards and designed to be used by unskilled persons, not components of an electrical installation. Are you saying the instructions require the fridge to be installed by a competent electrician, even when simply being plugged into a socket outlet using the supplied plug?

Modern appliances are intended to safe when protected by a B16 or 16A gG fuse as this is what they will have in many countries. Outside the UK, the appliance flex and plug are protected against short-circuit by the same 16A MCB in the board that protects the wiring against short-circuit and overload. The appliance must have its own internal protection against overload. In the UK we have 13A sockets on 32A circuits so one OCPD can't protect both, requiring us to put a fuse in the plug as well. But for the most part, that is what the plug fuse does; deals with the discrepancy between a 32A circuit and a 0.75 - 1.25mm² flex.

By all means put 1A fuses in your lamps and 5A fuse in your toaster. There are no surges to consider and no harm in it. But the thread was about the specific case of a hermetic refrigeration compressor that can have a high stall current under abnormal restart, that is equipped with a Klixon to prevent overheating and a flex suitable for S/C protection at 16A, and for which the manufacturer recommends a 13A fuse. Here it makes sense not to go as low as possible simply to reduce the splash in the very unlikely event that the flex gets crushed.

 

[John-SJW]

I am saying use common sense, not go by instructions from manufacturers (some dodgy) from other parts of the world, which probably have never heard of a ring circuit, or some cover all reg. Make it safer.

 

[static zap]

Common sense disappeared with a 16A EU supply.
and 3A or 13A choices.
(I blame the accountants - if choice costs money -Why so many shampoos )
Come back 5A , my surge choice for below 750W. Will still fail in time on some.

 

[John-SJW]

Where are you getting these 6A plug fuses? 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 10 and 13 are the ratings I know of.

Typo. All are available.

Plug Top Fuses - BS1362

Make it safer.

 

[static zap]

Last lime I got 7A & 10As I was told may try and standardise to 3A and 13A ,
due to EU , modern flex size rules.
( and risk of customer incompetence - so is that an insurance thing ?)