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A small under counter AEG fridge. Instructions say it is fitted with a 13A fuse in the plug. Also states it must be replaced by a 13A fuse. The fridge is drawing 0.32 amps. A 13A fuse is ridiculously oversized. If having a mcb or RCBO at the CU for just the fridge, a 1.00mm cable can be run on a radial for it.

The instructions do say that a qualified or competent electrician must fit the appliance, so a get out for them. If the electrician say 3A will do then that is that I suppose. Do many ignore these types of instructions and say insert a 3A fuse in the plug? Safer.
 
I have seen integrated appliances that come with a 13A plug, with the instructions saying it must be used. This can be cut off and fitted to an FCU. But many take what the instructions say as gospel, fitting a 13A socket behind a screwed-in integrated appliance.

Socket and plugs are for portable appliances. Permanently fitted appliance with a high current draw should not use sockets and plugs.
 
Has anyone (Lucien?) measured the stall current of a typical domestic fridge, while it's bouncing off the klixon, waiting for the pressure to leak away?
 
Has anyone (Lucien?) measured the stall current of a typical domestic fridge, while it's bouncing off the klixon, waiting for the pressure to leak away?
Not recently, and we should. The OP has a point that the current is lower than it used to be, and might not be a problem on a smaller fuse which might be acceptable. Regardless, I contend that the 13A fuse is not 'wrong' as was the premise of the thread, any more than the 3A fuse in my heating system FCU is 'wrong' because a 2A would work.
 
Nothing wrong at all with a washer or dryer plugged in using a 13A plug and socket.
I saw in the innards of a 13A sockets supplying a well used dryer drawing 12A. Lots of burnt parts in the plug and socket. This happens:

[ElectriciansForums.net] Fuse too big on fridge


[ElectriciansForums.net] Fuse too big on fridge


[ElectriciansForums.net] Fuse too big on fridge
 
It would help if 13A plugs were sold with 3A fuses fitted by default, instead of almost always 13A.

Then the people-who-don't-bother-to-change-the-fuse will use the 3A-equipped plugs on 1kW loads and cook the plugs and sockets. You can't win, except by getting rid of plug fuses. None of these issues in most of the rest of world; just plug the thing in and use it.
 
I contend that the 13A fuse is not 'wrong' as was the premise of the thread, any more than the 3A fuse in my heating system FCU is 'wrong' because a 2A would work.
There is little between 2A and 3A, as opposed to a draw of 0.32 A and 13A. The difference is massive.

What I am saying use common sense do not go by 'we always do that', regs or instructions (some dodgy for sure). Think safe.
 
And the issue of 13A plugs being sold with 13A fuses pre fitted is a minor issue now, bearing in mind everything has had to come with a plug and fuse pre-fitted to the appliance for many years.

I agree it was a problem years ago when people had to fit their own plugs when they bought things.
 
Then the people-who-don't-bother-to-change-the-fuse will use the 3A-equipped plugs on 1kW loads and cook the plugs and sockets.
Mmmm, can't think of many inductive domestic loads of around 1kW. Most - heaters, hair drier, tumble drier, kettle, etc., are more like 2kW, and would pop a 3A fairly quickly.
 
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