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Debrahim

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Hi, I have a dual RCD board made by Hager installed a couple of months ago.

It is high integrity, which I understand to mean RCBO’s can be fitted as well. (I got an EICR and let’s just say it was awful. The electrician who did the EICR even wrote a report for me but that’s another story).

After the posts on here I want to go full RCBO, and it seems this board allows it.

So that I vaguely know what I’m talking about when getting an electrician in, am I correct in thinking he or she would disconnect the RCD cables and then remove from the busbar. Then where the RCD was, the busbar would be left without a mcb/ RCBO, and a blank fitted, to prevent any fingers going in etc.

Or where the rcd was, can another RCBO be added ? Or should it just be kept blank as above? Basically what should be done to make it a RCBO board?

Board
HGVML914CUSPD
I’m pretty confident that this board can become a RCBO board, simply by removing the RCD’s and MCB’s, and then using RCBO’s. Am I correct ?

Lastly I’m having solar PV fitted, it seems that everyone is having just standard type A, B curve RCBO’s put in:

Obviously this is for their electrician to do, but a bit of pre-planning.

I looked in the manual, and they just refer to a ‘breaker’ I read a thread several years ago that referred to needing a type B breaker due to DC current, but I thought it is a bit odd as the power coming from the inverter into the house, should be AC and there should be no or little DC leakage.

I have a second DB, which was installed in 2012, It’s a plastic Hager, 6 circuit board, with 4 circuits. I want to replace this with a board with SPD, and RCBO’s, I will buy a bigger board, and the solar will go on here.

The inverter is 5kw, (410 x13 panels) so 5.3kw (never going to get that).

Lastly the battery, which can discharge at up to 5kw/h and likewise charge at 5kw/hr. Is right on the borderline in terms of breaker size. I found that Hager do 25 amp breakers which would be ideal, or do you think they will just whack 32 amp breakers in ? I assume if they use a big enough cable it’s fine.

Thanks for any advice.
 
I have just fitted a new dual row Hager consumer unit with SPD for a client who has EV, will be getting battery and PV

Hager do a change over switch (SF263), which is NOT an isolator (you will need the isolator in the main unit as well as an isolator in the new unit for the generator supply part
[ElectriciansForums.net] Hager High integrity board + RCBO’s + solar install.


The change over switch is manual but allows you to alter between battery and mains at a flick of a switch- your electrician will need to decide with you which circuits you want on the batery side.

I installed a VML91620CUSPD which allowed dual RCD, 3 RCBO's and an unprotected way for the central heating (combi boiler, trunking, no buried cables etc)

If you are going for a straight RCBO then a VML11820SPD would do well. 38 total available ways- massive and room for extras - such as din rail mounted meter that may come with your solar panels

Allows all your stuff in the one consumer unit with room to spare.

We have started suggesting dual row consumer units for this reason
 
With regards to the plastic Hager board made in 2012
Giving advice has a risk, and those asking for advice are often not as knowledgeable or experienced to provide all information or to know quite what to do with it. Otherwise they would not be asking...

CU replacement and/or new circuits are notifiable work under Part P of the England and wales building regulations so this forum has rules to be cautious about any advice. Also none of us really want to read about death or injury resulting from ill considered actions.
you really think I’m going to dismantle the board, order new RCBO’s, and wire it in ? I haven’t got the knowledge let alone the time. Perhaps you should campaign to make it a restricted product, like when I go to the wholesalers to order meds they check the register, or buying a product with R32 in it!
 

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