Handy Stuff for Commercial Installations

[IAmSparkytus!]

Morning all!

Just been having a quick flick through some threads and enjoying all the good advice being offered to many people on a variety of topics!

While flicking I've also noticed info on earthing nuts and wiska gland plates which have blown my mind as it seems I'm currently still stuck in the dark ages using banjos for all SWA installations.

To add to this I've only not long ago started using wagos instead of connector block...

This has made me want to ask whether there are any other really simple (probably second nature now to you all) materials/accessories and tools which would make commercial fit outs easier and simpler?

Thanks all, have a good day!

 

[pc1966]

One recent discovery/conversion for me is Flexishield cable.

An obvious use-case is for cables in walls where you don't want RCD protection, but you want something a lot easier to wrangle than SWA. Another is for cables clipped on walls where you might have rats, etc, and so PVC T&E or rubber is not good, as they don't seem to like Flexishield. They even make a cat-urine flavoured version of it for really problematic areas (farms, etc)

Flexishield R How It Works

Flexishield R How It Works

www.flexcables.co.uk

But the normal stuff is good for many industrial/commercial applications as it looks fairly neat if clipped to walls and is stiff-ish so stays in place. It is similar to FP cable but really rated for nail penetration RCD trip action.

 

[timhoward]

Great post - I look forward to seeing what else emerges that I've never heard of!
Thanks particularly for mentioning earthing nuts - I've also been using banjo connectors....!

I recently learned of Quickwire connectors which are awesome for rewiring lighting ridiculously quickly, or cable repairs, especially if lots of lights are on the same switched circuit. I has a room full of downlighters in a suspended ceiling and every single one just had single insulated cables looping in and out. I was amazed to be putting steps away about about half an hour having rewired the room.

Quinetic wireless light switches were another recent revelation - no battery in the switch, works on kinetic energy. More for domestic really though.

 

[Spaniel]

Swiftnut when your doing threaded bar after threaded bar after threaded bar......Spins it up the rod in no time, saves getting rsi while building trapezes!






And CMP island glands for easy testing of sub main earth after sub main earth after sub main
earth......isolates gland from housing and easy to disconnect the lemon and lime!

 

[pc1966]

Few other things to mention, for SWA the "Tauras STORM" glands are really good, as well as actually being IP68 rated for situations where a lot of water is likely.

Recent tools that I value are a torque screwdriver. I know a lot of experienced folk can get away without them, but to me its a bit like a car. You can do a lot of jobs without a torque wrench, but you would not consider a cylinder head change without it. Same for electrics, many jobs a screwdriver and Mk 1 hand is perfectly fine, but for a CU, control panel, etc, going over it with a torque driver to the specified values is much the same.

Other great tool (to be used with care) is a impact driver:

Impact Driver | Cordless Impact Driver Drill Set | Milwaukee Tool UK

Discover the power and precision of MILWAUKEE® Cordless Impact Drivers. Explore the range including Right Angle, Sub Compact and heavy-duty M18 FUEL™ models.

uk.milwaukeetool.eu

Along with the Armeg hole saws:

Armeg SSH3PCSET Drill Bits & Holesaws

Buy Armeg SSH3PCSET Drill Bits & Holesaws online at Shop4 Electrical & get FREE Next Day UK Delivery when you order by 2pm & spend £60

www.discount-electrical.co.uk

Though in retrospect I probably would get the quieter 'hydraulic' impact driver instead as I don't need full power most of the time and would rather have less noise.

 

[pc1966]

This sort of kit:

Milwaukee M18FQID-502X M18 FUEL SURGE Hydraulic Impact Driver

Milwaukee M18FQID. 18 volt cordless brushless 1/4 inch hex hydraulic impact driver. Constant 50Nm torque. The Milwaukee SURGE impact driver for quieter impact self tapping screws. UK equivalent for US Milwaukee Tool 2760-22. Milwaukee 4933451791.

www.bigredpowertools.co.uk

 

[LastManOnline]

Along with the Armeg hole saws:

Armeg SSH3PCSET Drill Bits & Holesaws

Buy Armeg SSH3PCSET Drill Bits & Holesaws online at Shop4 Electrical & get FREE Next Day UK Delivery when you order by 2pm & spend £60

www.discount-electrical.co.uk

Am curious about the Armeg "impact" holesaws. In what way do they differ from standard holesaws?.

On a separate note, I recently was alerted by a poster here to a multitool blade for cutting plaster and brick. The pictures of the cutout box looked really neat. That's the next buy on my list

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

Recent tools that I value are a torque screwdriver. I know a lot of experienced folk can get away without them, but to me its a bit like a car. You can do a lot of jobs without a torque wrench, but you would not consider a cylinder head change without it. Same for electrics, many jobs a screwdriver and Mk 1 hand is perfectly fine, but for a CU, control panel, etc, going over it with a torque driver to the specified values is much the same.

Have been thinking about getting a torque screwdriver recently. Can you recommend one? Are they expensive?

I'm a nightmare for losing tools so tend to avoid screwdriver sets with interchangeable heads!

Im also interested to know, and you'll probably be able to tell me, whether the torque drivers make things more or less tight than someone would tend to make things with a standard screwdriver?

 

[LastManOnline]

This has made me want to ask whether there are any other really simple (probably second nature now to you all) materials/accessories and tools which would make commercial fit outs easier and simpler?

You may already have one, but the endoscope cameras for 30 to 50 euro are worth their weight in gold for domestic work. Being able to see what's above a ceiling or under a floor, in a stud wall, BEFORE drilling gives, great piece of mind.

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

I recently learned of Quickwire connectors which are awesome for rewiring lighting ridiculously quickly, or cable repairs, especially if lots of lights are on the same switched circuit. I has a room full of downlighters in a suspended ceiling and every single one just had single insulated cables looping in and out. I was amazed to be putting steps away about about half an hour having rewired the room.

They look the dogs proverbials! How much do they cost? Do they only connect 2 twin and earths or can they connect say 2 twin and earths along with a flex to a light fitting for example? And do they make them for 3 core and earth?

 

[Dustydazzler]

This sort of kit:

Milwaukee M18FQID-502X M18 FUEL SURGE Hydraulic Impact Driver

Milwaukee M18FQID. 18 volt cordless brushless 1/4 inch hex hydraulic impact driver. Constant 50Nm torque. The Milwaukee SURGE impact driver for quieter impact self tapping screws. UK equivalent for US Milwaukee Tool 2760-22. Milwaukee 4933451791.

www.bigredpowertools.co.uk

Is that for consumer unit

 

[i=p/u]

Am curious about the Armeg "impact" holesaws. In what way do they differ from standard holesaws?.

On a separate note, I recently was alerted by a poster here to a multitool blade for cutting plaster and brick. The pictures of the cutout box looked really neat. That's the next buy on my list

They are brilliant just a little tad expensive to me. But no doubt I'd lift one if heading to metal munch

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

Am curious about the Armeg "impact" holesaws. In what way do they differ from standard holesaws?.

I've got a few of these, they're best used on sheet metal really. Fuse boards, metal trunking etc. They're only maybes 20mm deep, have a flared end which prevents you from pushing the holesaw further inside after the hole has been drilled, and they have a spring which shoots the metal back out to stop it getting clogged up.

Can use them on other materials if you need to avoid hitting cables etc but plastic and wood will get stuck inside like a standard holesaw.

 

[Sparky Pat]

One recent discovery/conversion for me is Flexishield cable.

An obvious use-case is for cables in walls where you don't want RCD protection, but you want something a lot easier to wrangle than SWA. Another is for cables clipped on walls where you might have rats, etc, and so PVC T&E or rubber is not good, as they don't seem to like Flexishield. They even make a cat-urine flavoured version of it for really problematic areas (farms, etc)

Flexishield R How It Works

Flexishield R How It Works

www.flexcables.co.uk

But the normal stuff is good for many industrial/commercial applications as it looks fairly neat if clipped to walls and is stiff-ish so stays in place. It is similar to FP cable but really rated for nail penetration RCD trip action.

I like the look of this cable , particularly the rodent retardent version, could well be something that I could use . Thank you pc 1966 for the heads up.

 

[i=p/u]

We love your input pc66, happy Saturday man.