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Hi,

The shower pull chord switch has snapped at my mom’s home and having unscrewed the switch I discovered a horror show(see pic). So I’ve had cut the wires back to clean them up but having done so it’s left me with nothing reasonable to wire up the new switch.
There’s nothing left on the cable to pull through and access to the loft in this very old dwelling is going to be an epic so re-routing isn’t really on the table.
Could I use some SpliceLine in-line wire connectors to extend the wires and if so would the 32 amp ones cut it?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.
 

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I hate pull cords just for this reason. Give me a wall mounted isolator anytime.

Take the switch off, take the pattress box down and cut out the hole out a bit... you might find the cable is just stuck a little and might pull spare down.
Or, cut out for a dry lining box, a good depth one at 47mm and fit the switch flush to the ceiling. Gain maybe 2 inches on the cables.
 
Also use a decent quality switch.


 
I hate pull cords just for this reason. Give me a wall mounted isolator anytime.

Take the switch off, take the pattress box down and cut out the hole out a bit... you might find the cable is just stuck a little and might pull spare down.
Or, cut out for a dry lining box, a good depth one at 47mm and fit the switch flush to the ceiling. Gain maybe 2 inches on the cables.
There can be problems with getting a strong fix using a dry liner into either a plasterboard or lathe ceiling, end up reinforcing with cutting out some ply.
 
A further tip - when selecting a replacement switch, ensure it's orientated so that screwdriver access for terminals is from both sides, and NOT from the wall and front.
I wouldn't even try to fit it as pictured as you can't fit a screwdriver between the wall and terminals.
 
It's very common to have dry lining boxes for pullcord shower isolators in my neck of the woods and the plasterboard very rarely fails around the box when properly fitted.
So rare I can't remember when I last saw one.
 

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