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Help with small lifting motor wiring? Where does the other end of this resistor go?
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Osteo1
No circuit board just continuation of the wires
That has also been doctored where it is using a green/yellow for a line conductor. I still think the resistor goes in series with the start winding because at present it connects to the capacitor and the capacitor must then connect to the winding. If I had it in front of me I would tinker with it but from a distance I couldn't say with confidence it has had too many alterations. I am sure a motor specialist would sort it for a small fee.
The more I see of this setup the less I like it. It looks like it could be a 230v stepper motor but I don't see any encoder feedback wiring. Maybe that's what the resistor was for, I don't know for sure though. Someone has definately adapted it to work in that application, it doesn't look like original fitment.
What was the original problem that motivated you to disamantle it?
What was the original problem that motivated you to disamantle it?
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Osteo1
It went pop!
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Osteo1
The wiring going into the motor had rubbed through the lagging and shorted blowing the fuse I had to dismantle it to get the motor to a man that could fix it but I didn't take the switching unit / wiring as it was all connected to the bench still
If it's a stepper motor then I can't help, but if it's a single phase induction motor I have a thought, for what it's worth.
I think the R was in series with the C and they are used to create the phase shift in the 2nd motor winding needed to start it. (It looks like a diy mod - not happy ...). So the floating R wire should be attached to the top brown wire that goes to the switch. I've attached a diagram of what I've in mind. Please remember this is a 230V motor and the wiring is clearly in a distressed state and not suitable for use, in my humble opinion.
I think the R was in series with the C and they are used to create the phase shift in the 2nd motor winding needed to start it. (It looks like a diy mod - not happy ...). So the floating R wire should be attached to the top brown wire that goes to the switch. I've attached a diagram of what I've in mind. Please remember this is a 230V motor and the wiring is clearly in a distressed state and not suitable for use, in my humble opinion.
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Osteo1
Thank you for all your help I think 'distressed' is too kind! Think a visit to my local motor electrician is in order!!
Wilko is spot on with his diagram. You can source the replacement resistor from:
Ohmite AG10J2R2E 2R2 5% 10W Audio Gold Wirewound Axial Resistor - https://www.rapidonline.com/ohmite-ag10j2r2e-2r2-5-10w-audio-gold-wirewound-axial-resistor-62-7388
and then ask the electrician to make the soldered fly leads to it and wire it to the connector strip. I have given you a likely replacement component but you must order using the details on the defunct resistor - all we can see is 2R2 or 2.2Ohms. You want the power rating and operating voltage off it as well but I reckon for the current flow (circa 1Amp) and the duty cycle (circa 5% or 12 seconds in 60 run time) a 10Watt rating and 350Volt is sufficient. Rapid on line or RS have a help line.
I think the purpose of this ad hoc addition is to allow the 220Volt motor to be operated on a 240Volt supply. Without it I think maybe the motor would run too fast for the application and exceed its rated winding current.
You might want at look at the SKF catalogue servo actuator and control catalogue:
http://www.skf.com/binary/92-27487/Actuator-Range-Catalogue.pdf
In it you will find at page 330 details of replacement single channel up/down switches. When I perused quickly though the catalogue but I could not find details of the motor you have - a MAGNETIC SHC 14 BAK 11 but a you might discover it with a slower read through or further Google searches.
All the above is written on the understanding you will employ a competent electrician or motor specialist to do and test the corrective work.
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Me too , look closely at switch .
Resistor a bit small to discharge cap , but reduce speed in one direction ?
( No liability accepted for BAD advice )
S
Specialist
It's not using only 2 wires, the OP had missed out a Blue wire in his original diagram.
fyi
1. see: Permanent Split-Capacitor Motors - http://www.industrial-electronics.com/AC-DC-motors/54_Permanent-Split-Capacitor-Motors.html for a ditty on Permanent split Capacitor motor (single value capacitor - ie just one capacitor for both start and run.)
2. see: What is a Capacitor Start Capacitor Run Motor? - its Phasor Diagram & Characteristics - Circuit Globe - http://circuitglobe.com/capacitor-start-capacitor-run-motor.html for a PSCM -2 value capacitor - ie: two capacitors in parallel for starting and then one switched out of circuit once running at operating speed).
Just revealing "GUT" feeling part of Fault finding process for others to see ...
( The like many books , the answers / spoilers are at the other end of the post)
At times you lead your self up the garden path !
B
bibzo
it must be to power, as the capacitor must have a feed, I can only think its to smooth the supply ,
Hi everyone,
If...
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