How much for a consumer unit exchange? | Page 2 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss How much for a consumer unit exchange? in the Talk Electrician area at ElectriciansForums.net

Well the board is 10 way with all the appropriate breakers needed to do a whole two story house. And they do go wrong, but my local wholesalers are good as gold for replacing faulty mcbs, rcds, rcbos.

I was thinking around about the ÂŁ400 mark, with mains water and gas bonding all extra considering route, length, awkwardness running etc etc.

Although to be honest if I'm doing a job for someone who doesn't want inconvenience, its RCBO'S all the way. And at ÂŁ28 a pop, the ÂŁ400 price certainly goes up a quid or two ;-))

One question though. When you say ÂŁ400, is that including a NICEIC Cert, or is that extra too???

all in including my wit and charm
 
Wylex recall after recall after recall, everywhere you go wylex recall, kinda says to me that maybe, just maybe it may be an idea to use a different board? Call me old fashioned if you will! It's all relative surely, ÂŁ65 ÂŁ85 ÂŁ205, it's what's safe, it's what you put your name to, ok so you fit the cheap wylex board , that plays up and develops faults, but as it turns out the place needs a full re-wire as well, would the customer think, hmmmm decent spark, fitted a good quality, relaible board that has given us no trouble, it's the main installation that's at fault, or........Cheap board, cheap job, got charged alot............Pick a different spark....Me thinks!
P.S other boards are available and wylex I believe is the best brand in the world ever, and if they made lager it would probably be the best lager in the world!!!!!
 
I know its compulsory. I was just asking whether he included the certification in his ÂŁ400 price. You see I'm not NICEIC just yet. I get an NICEIC mate down for the certification. So its an extra cost for me.
 
so you factor in the cost in your quote. at ÂŁ400 ish, you have enough profit to pay your mate, unless he's going to charge you ÂŁ200 ish.
 
Hi Guys

What tests would you generally carry out? So far the only borad change I've done was on a complete re-wire.
Many Thanks
Steve
 
As you have to issue an EIC and therefore schedule of inspections and results you do all test required by them. Even before I take the old CU down I do a good visual of the installation as that will tell you a lot, then a minimum of a full IR on the installation. If I get a poor result on that then you need to identify each circuit to find the poor result.

After changing the board I then do my dead tests which would be continuity, already done the IR so would have those results and then do the live tests Ze PFC RCD tests.

As for the R1 + R2 test, it it's a domestic CU change then R1 + R2 as normal, all circuits on the RCD 30mA would be 1667. Any circuit not RCD protected would do a measured R1 + R2. Then do a measured Zs test. In Commercial/ Industrial where there may not be RCD protection again R1 + R2 and then the Zs measured.

If it is RCD 30mA as long as the measured Zs is below 1667 and the RCD trips within time then the circuit is within parameters.
 
What i test is continutity of the earth bonds Ze.r1r2 of all circuits ,continuity of the rings , insulation resistance Zs on all circuits,Zs on all circuits ,RCD x1 x5 and Ramp tests where required fill in a EIC and then notify screw fix do volex 5 x 5 dual RCD boards for ÂŁ59.95
 
I go around with my plug in socket tester, honest:(
mine the posh one with the touch buttons. >50v , and rcd test. ok it's about as accurate as CEF invoices, but as a quick test prior to CU change, saves some time.
 
cheap board means returns to the job which cost you in th elong run. I only use Hager of MK round about 100 ex vat for a 12 way with breakers of my choice.
I find most customers are ok with paying for a PIR before I change the board, reduced to around 160 for up to 10 ways if the have confirmed the board change. I then do this a week or so before the board change so I can get a full set of results before I alter anything and a chance to agree what remedial works needs to be done before I can change the board eg main bonding or broken rings or borrowed neutrals etc.
 

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