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HappyHippyDad

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I had a consumer unit replacement today. It was a bit of a nightmare as most of the cables were too short for the new unit.

I extended the ones that required extending with crimps and a bit of heat shrink, but it took forever.

Are there any other options that are easier? I don't really like the idea of wago's as they just get crammed in and it gets very messy.

I suppose the only real way of avoiding all the crimps is to have a separate box next to the consumer unit with a din rail in it and appropriate connectors. This would look a bit crowded though, take just as long and be more expensive.

What do you guys usually do?
 
I think what are being referred to are these.

I have had mixed results with these particular connectors. I actually saw some failed ones in the rear of a socket box that had got very warm and glued themselves to the backbox. Tended to shy away from them since that!
I do like the wago inline connectors they feel a lot more positive on a pull test!
Can't beat a properly terminated crimp though!!
Sy
Nasty things had a ring final circuit fault due to inconsistent continuity readings, replaced them and fault gone.
 
@westward10 I've actually had a similar issue with them being inconsistent connections. Extended a heater connection with them in an ideal box and was getting high readings opened the box and they were good, closed it and they were naff. Ripped the lot out and used wagos instead, perfect readings!
I actually managed to pull one off a 2.5 conductor with very little force and no twisting.
The box I bought is still in the van bar about 6.
 
I've a Wiska extension box bought for a job next week.

The annoying thing is that it's to replace a bunch of round Ashley JB's that someone lashed in to do the job before (looks awful!) for a CU move of literally about 2'. Now, due to a kitchen refit, the CU could actually do with going back to where it was before but can't as the cables all got dressed off too short to reterminate them without being extended again. It's a dog's dinner, and that's probably an insult to my dog!!
 
Wiska Boxes are great in a domestic situation. But I always find I want to leave at least a extra 6 inches length of each cable . So that it allows play if someone has to put a new board on etc. Some of these UBER tidy wired boards leave very little to play with at a later date.
 
Try using the ideal inline tooless through crimps, if extending inside the enclosure on smaller cables, it's neat and timesaving.
Yep my go to for solid cored cables, much better than crimps (has anyone ever seen a current rating for a blue butt crimp? or any other red,yellow, blue for that matter..) , quicker as well
 
@westward10 I've actually had a similar issue with them being inconsistent connections. Extended a heater connection with them in an ideal box and was getting high readings opened the box and they were good, closed it and they were naff. Ripped the lot out and used wagos instead, perfect readings!
I actually managed to pull one off a 2.5 conductor with very little force and no twisting.
The box I bought is still in the van bar about 6.
Never had these problems but now concerned to hear that others have...will buy a box of the ludicrously priced wago inline ones next time
 
Yep my go to for solid cored cables, much better than crimps (has anyone ever seen a current rating for a blue butt crimp? or any other red,yellow, blue for that matter..) , quicker as well

Red 19, blue 27 and yellow 48 amps
 
Looking on here as to the best way to lower my CU and have seen the wiska box and the thought struck me, couldn't a box be produced that had bus bars for the neutral and earth with provision to extend with 25mm cable and then connectors for the individual lives? Non-electrician but would love to know if my thinking is right or wrong
 
Looking on here as to the best way to lower my CU and have seen the wiska box and the thought struck me, couldn't a box be produced that had bus bars for the neutral and earth with provision to extend with 25mm cable and then connectors for the individual lives? Non-electrician but would love to know if my thinking is right or wrong
Having all neutrals commoned on outgoing cables would be problematic where more than one RCD is present or where such protection is afforded through the use of RCBOs. Even if this wasn't the case, future upgrades would be problematic.

Commoning outgoing earths would be less problematic, but would make fault finding or testing more difficult.
 

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