I got them a month ago from trade fair. The best product at the show.

Brilliant time saving when doing lighting in loft for first floor. I hate being in lofts so anything that hurries the job is brilliant.

Really easy to use.
 
if you like the 2 cable push fit entry, have a look at the JCC V50. only 50mm tall, and can be covered by insulation. since finding these, i specify them on all installations.
Thanks for the info...I do like the look of them especially 50mm height is useful and will bare them in mind in future. I am more of a fan of the replaceable lamp option, easier to maintain/upgrade without damaging the ceiling.
 
No, I can't see a situation where I would need to use them to be honest. Would you be using them?

I’d doubt it tbh. I could see their potential for suspended ceiling lighting. And look much faster than using click flow connectors.

But the wholesalers round here would charge a fortune for them to make them not worthwhile anyways lol
 
Yes I bought a starter set too at elex show.. they work fine, the strippers alone are worth the money.
They are a real time saver so if you have lots of junctions to do I reckon should be cost effective and they leave a very neat and consistent jacket and wires strip..
I would also endorse the fact if space is an issue they are very compact, apart from the fact that unless you want a simple cable in, cable out you need to use both ends of the splitter; sometimes the job demands access just one end of a jb, like the wagobox.
Well worth trying in my opinion .They definitely have a place..
 
Don't think I would use them on new jobs as I don't like to put in any junctions, MF or otherwise, on a new job.
My achy wrists are loving the jokari tool though..... breeze on a full rewire second fix.
You HAVE to use some sort of junction when daisy chaining downlights.. in my opinion these offer a far more reliable and consistent way of doing it rather than looping in and out of each lamp, even if they have pushin terminals.. each splitter has an input and 3 outputs, so hardly breaking the bank in the general scheme of things.
 
You HAVE to use some sort of junction when daisy chaining downlights.

Why ? I don't see what's wrong with loopping in and out of a downlight, it's easier to fault find too, and as mentioned earlier didn't they specified that they shouldn't be covered ?
The strippers are great though I have a pair of original Jokari strippers and I've been using them to second fix downlights for the last few years.

Great for loft work, and suspended ceilings. The way its advertised looks a bit rough, looks like they are after the new build market.
I wouldn't like to take someone's sheet flooring up in 5 years time and find these burried underneath with cables pulled string tight.

Anyway I'm old fashioned I still like to use a RB4 junction boxes for some lighting rewires, I just use wagos and put my JB in a accessible location. If they brought out a nice Junction box ( like a heating wiring centre) with cable clamps and fixed pushed in terminals. I'd be spending my money :)
 
You guys will hate this, but I can see these being a great help to the a̶m̶a̶t̶e̶u̶r̶ mate-who's-an-electrician when fitting a new ceiling light.
 
You guys will hate this, but I can see these being a great help to the a̶m̶a̶t̶e̶u̶r̶ mate-who's-an-electrician when fitting a new ceiling light.
What sort of light in the scenario you posted did you have in mind?
 
Each has its place.. I was thinking of the reliability aspects really, as each loopin light is in effect a junction box..
one pushin wire not QUITE home and could be a revisit some time later :-(

and as for fault finding, each light would be on its own radial, as it were, instead of one light possibly taking out the rest of the string..
 
Now hold on just a minute Tel...the Fairey Swordfish?
If you mean the aeroplane, I concur...but if you mean the boat
swordfish-img_002.jpg

then I will have to disagree!
 
You HAVE to use some sort of junction when daisy chaining downlights.. in my opinion these offer a far more reliable and consistent way of doing it rather than looping in and out of each lamp, even if they have pushin terminals.. each splitter has an input and 3 outputs, so hardly breaking the bank in the general scheme of things.

You don't have to use junctions at all. I don't.

They would work well for this purpose if that's your method though, adding £5 to each point.
 
Now hold on just a minute Tel...the Fairey Swordfish?
If you mean the aeroplane, I concur...but if you mean the boat
swordfish-img_002.jpg

then I will have to disagree!
i did mean the aircraft. obsolete in 1936 but crippled Bismark in 1941. oh. and sank a few Italian ships in a "safe" harbour.

upload_2018-5-26_19-10-23.jpeg
 
You don't have to use junctions at all. I don't.

They would work well for this purpose if that's your method though, adding £5 to each point.
Oops! It's £5 per 3 lights, minus extra cable and labour at each light. And loopin/out at a light IS a junction.. small price to pay for better reliability in my view but probably nothing in it cost wise.
 
Oops! It's £5 per 3 lights, minus extra cable and labour at each light. And loopin/out at a light IS a junction.. small price to pay for better reliability in my view but probably nothing in it cost wise.

I'm a bit lost with what you mean then. I thought you meant you used an external junction box at each downlight.
Yes a connection at a downlight is a junction but I don't know what you mean by better reliability. What would this be replacing ?

I just connect into each downlight with no external connections or boxes.
 
small price to pay for better reliability in my view but probably nothing in it cost wise.
But...
If if something happened to the joint, or a cable you would have to take the floor up to find the joint before you find the issue.

If you have a issue with a joint at a light is easy you can just pop the light out and get straight to the connection IMO this makes it easier to break down faults.
Its always best to avoid putting a load of joint boxes under the floor.
 
I don't see what I could use these for in lighting. Even with LED panels as they don't accept flex terminations they don't appeal to me. Downlights I'd use Loop In Loop Out that comes with the fitting. Decorative light fittings to replace pendants, where the heck do I hide that thing?

However they could be brilliant as others have said for adding a spur on a ring or radial circuit when the existing cable is tight (if they ever make a suitable version)
 
Nice exactly like that ! Thanks for the info
A customer of mine, who liked to buy most of the electrical materials, bought these which was nice to try...I like the idea....but i was not that impressed with the quality of these. The problem I had when I wanted to terminate all wires then fix the box in an awkward loft space. Using all T/E cable the push fits started to move away from the centre block due to me moving(flexing) the box exposing the metal interconnections (looked like a mini busbar). In this case it would have been quicker using pushfits + empty jcn box... I have also used the hager downlight jcn box over the years (J501) (2x T/E cables in one clamp...yes.. you can) also adapted with push fits.Technical Properties J501 - http://www.hager.co.uk/product-catalogue/wiring-accessories/junction-boxes/downlighter-junction-box/downlighter-junction-box/j501/41729.htm
 
Thanks @sparksfly. I know we are going off topic a bit here.
Shame things don't have the same build quality anymore, the surewire product is no good if it falls apart :)

Quite often when doing Large occupied rewires (especially If alone) I find it useful to re-wire the lights using a large joint box method, I just find it takes the pressure out of the job, as you can concentrate on a few lights or area at a time and not need to worry.
I'm not a big fan of feeding the light switch and the 3 plate method is a PITA if you have decorative fittings.
So in that respect I see the benefit of the product mentioned in the thread.

I'd still much rather have a nice accessible location where I could do a nice joint box, all labelled up. Now I know from reading past threads here some members think it's a bit rough and call it "spider wiring" but IMOH if done correctly (which is not hard) it makes a nice neat job. That is easy to maintain and fault find, but feeding the switch is the norm now, it's just all round and easier to understand I suppose.

I do expect this product to do quite well though, Its pretty well labeled and idiot proff (to some degree) I reckon I could tell my wife how to wire a basic light circuit with these and she would probably be able to do it. So our European multitrade friends will have no problem, neither will the passionate DIYer.
 

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I can now do a junction "box" mf in 20 secs, switch loop and feed
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