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Discuss I can now do a junction "box" mf in 20 secs, switch loop and feed in the Electrical Tools and Products area at ElectriciansForums.net

Don't think I would use them on new jobs as I don't like to put in any junctions, MF or otherwise, on a new job.
My achy wrists are loving the jokari tool though..... breeze on a full rewire second fix.
You HAVE to use some sort of junction when daisy chaining downlights.. in my opinion these offer a far more reliable and consistent way of doing it rather than looping in and out of each lamp, even if they have pushin terminals.. each splitter has an input and 3 outputs, so hardly breaking the bank in the general scheme of things.
 
You HAVE to use some sort of junction when daisy chaining downlights.

Why ? I don't see what's wrong with loopping in and out of a downlight, it's easier to fault find too, and as mentioned earlier didn't they specified that they shouldn't be covered ?
The strippers are great though I have a pair of original Jokari strippers and I've been using them to second fix downlights for the last few years.

Great for loft work, and suspended ceilings. The way its advertised looks a bit rough, looks like they are after the new build market.
I wouldn't like to take someone's sheet flooring up in 5 years time and find these burried underneath with cables pulled string tight.

Anyway I'm old fashioned I still like to use a RB4 junction boxes for some lighting rewires, I just use wagos and put my JB in a accessible location. If they brought out a nice Junction box ( like a heating wiring centre) with cable clamps and fixed pushed in terminals. I'd be spending my money :)
 
You guys will hate this, but I can see these being a great help to the a̶m̶a̶t̶e̶u̶r̶ mate-who's-an-electrician when fitting a new ceiling light.
 
Each has its place.. I was thinking of the reliability aspects really, as each loopin light is in effect a junction box..
one pushin wire not QUITE home and could be a revisit some time later :-(

and as for fault finding, each light would be on its own radial, as it were, instead of one light possibly taking out the rest of the string..
 
Now hold on just a minute Tel...the Fairey Swordfish?
If you mean the aeroplane, I concur...but if you mean the boat
[ElectriciansForums.net] I can now do a junction "box" mf in 20 secs, switch loop and feed

then I will have to disagree!
 
You HAVE to use some sort of junction when daisy chaining downlights.. in my opinion these offer a far more reliable and consistent way of doing it rather than looping in and out of each lamp, even if they have pushin terminals.. each splitter has an input and 3 outputs, so hardly breaking the bank in the general scheme of things.

You don't have to use junctions at all. I don't.

They would work well for this purpose if that's your method though, adding £5 to each point.
 
Now hold on just a minute Tel...the Fairey Swordfish?
If you mean the aeroplane, I concur...but if you mean the boat
[ElectriciansForums.net] I can now do a junction "box" mf in 20 secs, switch loop and feed

then I will have to disagree!
i did mean the aircraft. obsolete in 1936 but crippled Bismark in 1941. oh. and sank a few Italian ships in a "safe" harbour.

[ElectriciansForums.net] I can now do a junction "box" mf in 20 secs, switch loop and feed
 
You don't have to use junctions at all. I don't.

They would work well for this purpose if that's your method though, adding £5 to each point.
Oops! It's £5 per 3 lights, minus extra cable and labour at each light. And loopin/out at a light IS a junction.. small price to pay for better reliability in my view but probably nothing in it cost wise.
 
Oops! It's £5 per 3 lights, minus extra cable and labour at each light. And loopin/out at a light IS a junction.. small price to pay for better reliability in my view but probably nothing in it cost wise.

I'm a bit lost with what you mean then. I thought you meant you used an external junction box at each downlight.
Yes a connection at a downlight is a junction but I don't know what you mean by better reliability. What would this be replacing ?

I just connect into each downlight with no external connections or boxes.
 
small price to pay for better reliability in my view but probably nothing in it cost wise.
But...
If if something happened to the joint, or a cable you would have to take the floor up to find the joint before you find the issue.

If you have a issue with a joint at a light is easy you can just pop the light out and get straight to the connection IMO this makes it easier to break down faults.
Its always best to avoid putting a load of joint boxes under the floor.
 

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