Is it OK to terminate switched fused spur with 13A socket?

[haggis999]

I am planning a new layout for our utility room and would appreciate some advice. We have three appliances (washer, dryer and freezer) that will sit under a worktop directly below the window. My intention is to feed this equipment via a row of three 13A fused spur switchplates located inside a tall larder unit to the right of the appliances.

Would there be any problem in terminating each of these switched fused spurs with an unswitched 13A socket instead of cutting off the moulded plugs currently fitted to the appliance power cords and hard wiring each cable to a flex outlet box?

Another issue is the risk of trapping the mains cord when one of these big and heavy machines is pulled out from under the worktop for servicing and then pushed back. There will only be a 23mm gap between each machine, so it will be impossible to see what is happening behind the appliances. The only solution I can think of is to pull the loose mains cord up and across the top of the machine before it is pushed back under the worktop. The loose cable would then be pushed back out of sight once the machine is in place.

Are there any better ways to minimise the risk of trapping the cable?

 

[Risteard]

feeding a single 13A socket below

Preferably unswitched if you don't want calls about it not working because someone hit the switch before pushing the appliance back!

 

[haggis999]

Our utility room is only long enough to take the row of 3 appliances with one storage cupboard on either side, so I don't really have any alternative layout options. There would be no cord length issues if the sockets are directly behind each machine.

I might give myself more flexibility on the location of the 13A sockets if I use the following recessed box I have just discovered:

Sync-box solves slim TV wall-mounting blues - Inside CI - http://www.insideci.co.uk/news/sync-box-solves-slim-tv-wall-mounting-blues.aspx

 

[Midwest]

Our utility room is only long enough to take the row of 3 appliances with one storage cupboard on either side, so I don't really have any alternative layout options. There would be no cord length issues if the sockets are directly behind each machine.

I might give myself more flexibility on the location of the 13A sockets if I use the following recessed box I have just discovered:

Sync-box solves slim TV wall-mounting blues - Inside CI - http://www.insideci.co.uk/news/sync-box-solves-slim-tv-wall-mounting-blues.aspx

You could try contacting the service department for your new appliances. They will often supply replacement leads for damaged ones, and in some cases provide additional longer leads, that negates the problem of hidden plug top fuses behind kickboards etc.

 

[haggis999]

You could try contacting the service department for your new appliances. They will often supply replacement leads for damaged ones, and in some cases provide additional longer leads, that negates the problem of hidden plug top fuses behind kickboards etc.

That's an interesting thought. The two new machines both have quite short mains cables, especially the washing machine.

With longer leads, I could consider installing all three sockets inside an adjacent tall larder unit. In that case, I guess I would just use switched sockets and forget about having DP isolation switches.

 

[Midwest]

Our utility room is only long enough to take the row of 3 appliances with one storage cupboard on either side, so I don't really have any alternative layout options. There would be no cord length issues if the sockets are directly behind each machine.

I might give myself more flexibility on the location of the 13A sockets if I use the following recessed box I have just discovered:

Sync-box solves slim TV wall-mounting blues - Inside CI - http://www.insideci.co.uk/news/sync-box-solves-slim-tv-wall-mounting-blues.aspx

I've seen the Sync-box before, but not used it myself. The only issue with them is the back box required, which I believe is about 47mm? Just bear that in mind in your install. It still has the issue of fuse behind appliance. I would check with the manufacturer to see if they will supply a longer lead.

 

[Pete999]

That's an interesting thought. The two new machines both have quite short mains cables, especially the washing machine.

With longer leads, I could consider installing all three sockets inside an adjacent tall larder unit. In that case, I guess I would just use switched sockets and forget about having DP isolation switches.

You could always get DP switched Sockets?

 

[ipf]

That's an interesting thought. The two new machines both have quite short mains cables, especially the washing machine.

With longer leads, I could consider installing all three sockets inside an adjacent tall larder unit. In that case, I guess I would just use switched sockets and forget about having DP isolation switches.

Well done.......I see the old grey matter has just kicked in.

 

[haggis999]

You could always get DP switched Sockets?

That's what I would use. I haven't checked other catalogues, but I think all the MK switched socket outlets use DP switches.

 

[haggis999]

Well done.......I see the old grey matter has just kicked in.

That doesn't normally happen until well after lunch on a Sunday

 

[Midwest]

That's what I would use. I haven't checked other catalogues, but I think all the MK switched socket outlets use DP switches.

There are other manufacturers of DP socket outlets

 

[Midwest]

That doesn't normally happen until well after lunch on a Sunday

I would ensure you use a longer lead supplied via the manufacturer, if one is available. Cutting off a moulded plug is unlikely to invalidate a warranty, replacing their lead with your own might. They might also stipulate that it would need replacing by one of their engineers or a qualified electrician.

 

[haggis999]

I would ensure you use a longer lead supplied via the manufacturer, if one is available. Cutting off a moulded plug is unlikely to invalidate a warranty, replacing their lead with your own might. They might also stipulate that it would need replacing by one of their engineers or a qualified electrician.

I have already emailed the manufacturer to ask if longer mains cables are available, though until I read your post I had been thinking that there was probably nothing to stop me from replacing the cables myself.

Another answer could be to cut off the plugs and use an inline cable connector to extend the cable. That way, I would not be interfering with the internals of the appliance.

 

[Midwest]

I have already emailed the manufacturer to ask if longer mains cables are available, though until I read your post I had been thinking that there was probably nothing to stop me from replacing the cables myself.

Another answer could be to cut off the plugs and use an inline cable connector to extend the cable. That way, I would not be interfering with the internals of the appliance.

An inline connector is an option, but would try for a replacement lead if possible. Unnecessary connections, can always prove problematic, especially once its installed below a floor unit.

Edit, some of those in-line connectors are rated at 10amp or less.

 

[HandySparks]

You could always get DP switched Sockets?

If you can reach the socket to switch off, you can just pull the plug.

 

[haggis999]

Thanks to everyone for what has been a very useful conversation. I will now wait a day or two to see if the manufacturer can supply longer mains cables at a sensible price.