Is the width of 12x1220mmx2440mm plyboard enough for a test rig or would i need a 18x instead?

[David2632]

So I'm starting out a new rig and I'm fresh out of college with my level 3 without any experience and I think that I need to still have the knowledge and the practice of terminating cables, stripping cables and having a good understanding of different circuits and how they work. I will also practice with metal trunking for commerical work and maybe a tray and conduits if I do eventually purchase the conduit bender. I'm just trying to create a muscle memory so I can start off small first in my shed and then be able to apply it to the real world when I am onsite as I would be able to work efficiently. Any tips to start off with? Thank you.

 

[Lister1987]

So I'm starting out a new rig and I'm fresh out of college with my level 3 without any experience and I think that I need to still have the knowledge and the practice of terminating cables, stripping cables and having a good understanding of different circuits and how they work. I will also practice with metal trunking for commerical work and maybe a tray and conduits if I do eventually purchase the conduit bender. I'm just trying to create a muscle memory so I can start off small first in my shed and then be able to apply it to the real world when I am onsite as I would be able to work efficiently. Any tips to start off with? Thank you.

My rig is kicking around here somewhere, I just got a sheet of MDF (6mm iirc), as for stuff to put on it I've done a mix of scrounging (old DNO head, DOL starter) and purchasing (sundries like cable, backboxes, faceplates etc and then just copied layout diagrams found online; '2391 test rig' will bring back a few, then I just picked one and cracked on.


I did my rig for the same purpose; terminations and building muscle memory, I don't use it as much now but every now and then I'll get the urge, strip it off, give myself a spec and have at it, you'll want either some reels of scrap cable or resistors to add some 'length' to your cable readings (to better simulate lengths found in houses etc (and not just the ~60cm lengths used in college on the pratical boards.

From memory I had on mine;
One way lighting
Two way lighting
Fan isolator
Shower (realistically a bit of 10mm to a pull cord)
Hob/Oven (bit of 10mm to a cheese wedge
Ring socket circuit
Spur socket from said ring
Spur FCU from ring (then onto a lighting circuit - a garage feed in essence)
Radial circuit
A DOL starter to a 60309 socket
90° PVC
50mm bubble set in steel conduit - I had got myself a conduit bender for the sole purpose of honing my conduit bending, still use it now and again
Trunking/tray yet to be added.

Exactly what you put on yours is down to you and you don't have to have everything, all at once or at all, it's down to you and how you intend to utilise it.

Do not feel that you NEED to have it hooked up and powered for your purposes, realistically you can do everything at your level on a rig with no power.

You could add a bank of switchable faults but that's getting ahead of ourselves....


Bit of MDF, scroung any wiring, accessories etc [used/aged] stuff will add an element of authenticity and an idea of what you want your rig to do for you.

 

[David2632]

My rig is kicking around here somewhere, I just got a sheet of MDF (6mm iirc), as for stuff to put on it I've done a mix of scrounging (old DNO head, DOL starter) and purchasing (sundries like cable, backboxes, faceplates etc and then just copied layout diagrams found online; '2391 test rig' will bring back a few, then I just picked one and cracked on.


I did my rig for the same purpose; terminations and building muscle memory, I don't use it as much now but every now and then I'll get the urge, strip it off, give myself a spec and have at it, you'll want either some reels of scrap cable or resistors to add some 'length' to your cable readings (to better simulate lengths found in houses etc (and not just the ~60cm lengths used in college on the pratical boards.

From memory I had on mine;
One way lighting
Two way lighting
Fan isolator
Shower (realistically a bit of 10mm to a pull cord)
Hob/Oven (bit of 10mm to a cheese wedge
Ring socket circuit
Spur socket from said ring
Spur FCU from ring (then onto a lighting circuit - a garage feed in essence)
Radial circuit
A DOL starter to a 60309 socket
90° PVC
50mm bubble set in steel conduit - I had got myself a conduit bender for the sole purpose of honing my conduit bending, still use it now and again
Trunking/tray yet to be added.

Exactly what you put on yours is down to you and you don't have to have everything, all at once or at all, it's down to you and how you intend to utilise it.

Do not feel that you NEED to have it hooked up and powered for your purposes, realistically you can do everything at your level on a rig with no power.

You could add a bank of switchable faults but that's getting ahead of ourselves....


Bit of MDF, scroung any wiring, accessories etc [used/aged] stuff will add an element of authenticity and an idea of what you want your rig to do for you.

I am actually going to power up with a 13 amp plug Into either the isolator 3 pole rotary switch setup SWA 3 pole to the consumer unit or just to the consumer unit. I don't think you can use the 4 pole isolator as that's mainly 3 phase. I wanted to power it up so I can actually see whether the light pendant actually lights up. I don't have any testing equipment as I'm broke other than the fluke pen so I would rather see my results. What's a good test meter to start off with, do you know? Thank you for the advice!

 

[pirate]

I enjoyed David Savery's video of a test rig (with built in fault) that allows all sorts of testing...
It's a long watch, but quite entertaining.

 

[Lister1987]

I am actually going to power up with a 13 amp plug Into either the isolator 3 pole rotary switch setup SWA 3 pole to the consumer unit or just to the consumer unit. I don't think you can use the 4 pole isolator as that's mainly 3 phase. I wanted to power it up so I can actually see whether the light pendant actually lights up. I don't have any testing equipment as I'm broke other than the fluke pen so I would rather see my results. What's a good test meter to start off with, do you know? Thank you for the advice!

I advise you in the strongest possible terms not to try and run before you can walk, you are just introducing a danger that (at your current stage of your competency journey, may not fully appreciate.

If you must then put a battery pack (or 9v battery lead) as your 'consumer unit' and wire from that (t&e is just 2 cores as far as DC is concerned), at your light fittings/ceiling roses, just put in an LED in the place of the pendant itself.

This will allow you to wire a circuit, verify the cir unit works and that the pendant functions. This way you don't have the shock potential that you will introduce hooking to the mains.

As for test equipment, at your stage of study a simple multimeter ought to suffice as you're just checking continuity, granted you can't do insulation resistance but for your purpose (wiring functional circuits) then you just need the audible beep to say 'yup this
circuit works', which achieves your aim of the rig; wiring practice, ensuring complete path from source to endpoint.

Chances are you won't touch a/the test rig (and associated 'proper' testing) until level 3 so don't try and overburden yourself, focus on the muscle memory and craft skills.

NOW I can't exactly talk as as soon as I got on my level 2, I went out and got an MFT, some bits, made a rig, played with it dead, then juiced it up and played with it some more....

What I'm getting as is don't attempt to go outside your competency, without knowledge and support.

 

[pc1966]

I am actually going to power up with a 13 amp plug

As above, you really should be capable of dead testing first, as 230V is quite capable of killing or causing bad burns, etc.

If you are thinking of using a 13A plug, which you should pause and consider carefully first, make sure it has a 3A fuse and your sockets have working RCD protection. I.e. You do verify the test button works occasionally?

What's a good test meter to start off with, do you know?

Whatever you get make sure it is from a reputable shop/supplier, and is at least CAT-III rated to 300V (or more, such as CAT-IV and/or 600V). The measurement ratings are explained here:

Measurement category - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Basically if you make a mistake with the meter or something unfortunate happens, and it is rated to the appropriate category, it won't explode in your face. I'm really not joking here, folks have died from burns from that sort of thing and stats for the USA had something like 80% of fatalities in professional electricians being down to burn injuries, rather than electric shock.

Here is a low-ish priced meter that clearly states CAT-III to 600V:

Dilog DL9204 Digital Multimeter

Simple to use manual ranging multimeter Measures AC/DC voltage, current, diode and more Data hold and auto shut down functions

www.tester.co.uk

However, a multi-meter is not the most sensible first product for checking mains voltages. Why? Well it is very easy to make a mistake with the range selected and possibly blow its fuse (safely, if adequately rated) or have it on DC instead of AC and fail to read a dangerous voltage. That is why for "proving dead" you should use a contact voltage tester. Some of them have a continuity bleeper as well so serve to provide a bit more test capability for getting started. Here is an example:

Martindale VT12 Voltage & Continuity Tester

GS38 compliant tips LED indication of voltage up to 690V Continuity testing with buzzer

www.tester.co.uk

While not as glamorous as a meter, they do one job and do it well which is to allow you to verify if something is safe to work on (of course, also if testing on a live system to see where power is getting fed to). To be fully sure of your testing though you ought to have a "proving unit" to test your tester, but in many cases the continuity bleep is a good indicator, coupled with testing a known good circuit.

But this is all getting a bit ahead - you need to know how to safely work on anything live before you actually power it up.