View the thread, titled "L & N at the switch" which is posted in Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations on Electricians Forums.

It all boils down the situation in my eyes. Bringing neutrals to the switches is the only way of doing it at the spot I'm working at at the moment, more work involved in sinking the back boxes into the walls but can't grumble.
 
It all boils down the situation in my eyes. Bringing neutrals to the switches is the only way of doing it at the spot I'm working at at the moment, more work involved in sinking the back boxes into the walls but can't grumble.

What makes it the only way of doing it?
 
I do it and even fell out 20yrs ago with Clerk of Electrical Works in Hudd's who told me to remove all N from switches as it was bad practice and he didn't want it on his watch, I told him it wasn't bad practice or against any regulation, he adamantly stuck to his guns to which I pointed out that I want written instruction to remove them to which he said no as I had wired them wrong so I said well I want an A.I. for a redesign on the test key switches with neon and buzzers.. as they won't operate as intended without a neutral, he looked at my spec' and plans then said he wasn't aware of that.... I just said he should get onto the manufacturers of these parts question them about promoting bad practices ..... that didn't go down too well but he knows he was wrong caught up in a word of mouth taboo with sweet frig all background to it..... this was the same guy who told us to earth metal capping too with a lug and tail into the backbox.... he knew all the regs but had jack crap knowledge of how to interpret some of them. He never liked me after that and if he saw me on a site he kept away and left me to it.

Think he knew his career might rely on it as I made 2 complaints of his incompetence before, both times he was put straight :0)
 
Bring back the Octopus wiring system.

My preferred method is the central joint box method like that. But then I did have a bit of an old fashioned education.

I’ve used Octopus once but did use modern Weidmuller connectors. It’s a versatile system if things are liable to get altered.

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I was taught using J701 plastic joint boxes and connector strip, the only difference now is I use wago's out of habit
 
I'm sure there are many here that think i'm against a neutral conductor at a switch point, i'm not, if it's required for any reason, not a problem as far as i'm concerned. What i do have no time for, is switch looping. i've seen first hand on more than a few occasions totally congested back boxes where the switch plate accessories are literary pressing against the myriad cables. Heard all the old twoddle time and time again here, about how easy it all is, it is....until you have maybe several 2 way switches at one location or worse a combination of 2 ways and intermediates... Not to mention trying to get all the sheathed cables into a couple of bock box 20mm knockouts, and the minimum of 3 switch drop cables for every switch, ...before you start counting the 2 ways and intermediate cables that may be needed... Yep great system!! ....NOT!!
totally disagree , you have stated on a few posts how you dislike neutrals at switches, I really do not understand why, you are given a plan or instruction on the lighting requirements and switching arrangements required, how difficult is it to sink your boxes accordingly. I would understand your reluctance if every job you undertake has walls so thin that the boxes come thru the other side or maybe you have a vast stock of 16mm and 25mm boxes cluttering up your stockroom. Other than what I have mentioned I do not think your argument is valid.
My tin hat is on and I await the replies, bombs/insults etc
 
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Reply to the thread, titled "L & N at the switch" which is posted in Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations on Electricians Forums.

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