Lights flickering

[Jel]

We changed a consumer unit around 8 months ago, and the tenants are saying that the lights in the house all sort of flicker at the same time.
They say they think it started around the same time as we changed CU. All
The connections are tight, and there are no dimmers, anyone know what might be causing it, as they think it will damaged there computers?

 

[Globe Jockeys]

I just added a new page to my site about cause of flickering light, feel free to use the page for reference if you want to explain to any clients.

Get them to read it themselves, and save you the trouble of explaining some of the simple problems to them.
Don't worry I won't steal your clients (unless they pay me the flights from Sydney to Heathrow )

 

[Midwest]

talking of drivers in MCB terminals - found this brilliant torque screwdriver at one of my wholesalers the other week. A Kewtek, takes any standard size hex screw bit and adjusted with an allen key. Only £25 which I thought was a bargain by comparison with others I've seen.

Can you give us some more details about torque screwdriver.

 

[MarkieSparkie]

Can you give us some more details about torque screwdriver.

The price quoted in the link is the full trade exVAT price, you will get a significantly better price from your electrical wholesaler, hopefully as good as Rockingit got.

Torque Screwdriver

 

[Moses]

I've had this before when all my terminations where tight, the bus bar pin was outside of the terminal on the MCB. With modern boards and having to take the busbar off completely to add and remove MCB's, I can see this becoming more of a problem. I use a small plastic mirror just as a quick doubel check to make sure they are all in within the terminal

Been there done that!!!

 

[Moses]

, would disagree here because on some brands of mcb's(cheaper crap) if you fully open the clamp then tilt the mcb backwards and forwards the clamps will loosly slide open and closed and to fit on din'-mount its common to tilt forward thus closing clamp before you realise it, i have issues with this design and think clamps should be force action open and close via the grub-screw then this would have saved the industry a mint, as its usually the sparky that has to foot the return and repair but unless your aware of the issue its an easy trap to fall into.

I agree

I think that the screw terminal could be designed much better, may be spring loaded.

 

[GLENNSPARK]

I've had this before when all my terminations where tight, the bus bar pin was outside of the terminal on the MCB. With modern boards and having to take the busbar off completely to add and remove MCB's, I can see this becoming more of a problem. I use a small plastic mirror just as a quick doubel check to make sure they are all in within the terminal

unscrew terminations fully before inserting busbar....no probs then...

 

[GLENNSPARK]

I agree

I think that the screw terminal could be designed much better, may be spring loaded.

eh?....just push the screw in fully with the driver.....

 

[Moses]

Seen low energy lamps flickering even when switched off.

Why?

 

[Darkwood]

eh?....just push the screw in fully with the driver.....

My point to which he replied was its ok giving opinion when you are aware of the issue, but college dont tell you that sometimes after fully opening the screw clamp by tilting it it falls closed and allows the pin to sit at the back of the clamp, i use brands that have a pin shield at the rear to stop this happening so a design is out there and shouldn't be too hard to adapt to on any make of mcb, and yes your right holding it in with a driver does the job while you fit it but only if its happened to you before would you be aware of this, i put my hands up and say many yrs i fell foul and mcb overheated but never since.
manufacturers of mcb's have to follow relevent BS standards and i for one think that this should be addressed in them as many brands have seen fit to rectify this issue off their own backs.

 

[Darkwood]

Seen low energy lamps flickering even when switched off.

Why?

Normally effects LEDS and CFL's its relating to induction which has enough power to charge up the capacitive side of the electronics, usual suspect maybe strappers on 2ways and less common feed and sw in same cable, it can be overcome by fitting a suppressor will cure this but also double check earth is connected properly as this will reduce the effect.

 

[Moses]

Normally effects LEDS and CFL's its relating to induction which has enough power to charge up the capacitive side of the electronics, usual suspect maybe strappers on 2ways and less common feed and sw in same cable, it can be overcome by fitting a suppressor will cure this but also double check earth is connected properly as this will reduce the effect.

what type of suppressor?

May be a 100K resistor across the Lamp?

 

[Moses]

Originally Posted by darkwood
Normally effects LEDS and CFL's its relating to induction which has enough power to charge up the capacitive side of the electronics, usual suspect maybe strappers on 2ways and less common feed and sw in same cable, it can be overcome by fitting a suppressor will cure this but also double check earth is connected properly as this will reduce the effect.

what type of suppressor?

May be a 100K resistor across the Lamp?

What do you think?