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C

Chris sparky

Good evening guys and girls.

A friend of mine has had a log burner recently installed in his home. Other than just heating his lounge it is also going to do the hot water. For this reason there is a pump located behind it which obviously needs power. To get to the pump the cable would have to be clipped to a wall behind the heater. There is a gap of about 8-10 inches between the heater and the wall. Just wondering what your thoughts would be on cable type to get to the pump. Would you use a heat resistant flex or FP or other?

Not sure what the temp will be behind the burner. Will have to ring the manufacturer to find out.


Cheers
 
Very true Geordie, far to complicated for a DI to comprehend.

What always gets me with these threads that start “my friend has just”. Why don’t the OP’s admit they’ve taken on a job and haven’t a clue what they’re doing?
 
I thought log burners had to have a gravity loop in case of a power cut.

With mine it's the HW once it gets hot enough the pump kicks in.

Otherwise you get cold corrosion.

Mine has 2 pipe stats and if I could be bothered to remember or look it up I'd explain why. :)
 
All solid fuel boilers,should have the facility to "dump" excess heat,into either a dedicated heat sink/rad/thermal store,and this should be default,or not determined by stats,etc,ie; on a gravity or thermo-syphon circuit.

The problem with this age old system,is over the years,various manufacturers have added to or side-stepped these methods,with some approval of additional devices such as purge or quench circuits.

I have also seen various set-ups constructed in a "Hetas free" manner,where parallel back-up pumps,or DC pumps are added for a "melt-down" moment ...

For a true long term,reliable system,you need sized pipework,laid to falls,gravity to priority (usually HW) with heat sink on same,maybe pump assistance on CH circuit.

A well installed gravity system is a joy...and will function on a 14 storey block of flats...:yes:
 
I thought log burners had to have a gravity loop in case of a power cut.

With mine it's the HW once it gets hot enough the pump kicks in.

Otherwise you get cold corrosion.

Mine has 2 pipe stats and if I could be bothered to remember or look it up I'd explain why. :)

A HIGH LIMIT thermostat should be fitted to the gravity flow pipe close to the boiler and usually set at 90°C. This should override any pump control, switching the pump on and dissipating any excess heat around the radiator circuit.
To prevent boiler corrosion due to condensation it is necessary to maintain the return water temperature above 45°C. This can be achieved by the use of a LOW LIMIT thermostat on the return pipe from the hot water cylinder, close to the boiler. The thermostat should make on temperature rise, preventing the circulating pump from operating until the gravity circuit is up to temperature.
 
A HIGH LIMIT thermostat should be fitted to the gravity flow pipe close to the boiler and usually set at 90°C. This should override any pump control, switching the pump on and dissipating any excess heat around the radiator circuit.
To prevent boiler corrosion due to condensation it is necessary to maintain the return water temperature above 45°C. This can be achieved by the use of a LOW LIMIT thermostat on the return pipe from the hot water cylinder, close to the boiler. The thermostat should make on temperature rise, preventing the circulating pump from operating until the gravity circuit is up to temperature.

Thanks matey.

I did know this when I installed it 10+ years ago but had since forgotten as I haven't done another since.
 
t may sound sd for a 32 yr old, but one of my lifes goals is t have a log burner in my home, when i can afford my own home,.....satisfying....one day!!

SPARK2B

***SORRRY FOR TRAILING OFF
 
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