View the thread, titled "Main Bonding and Cross Bonding question?" which is posted in Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations on Electricians Forums.

EDIT: Btw, why are you cross bonding? Do I take it the system isn't to the 17th Ed regs?[/QUOTE]

The system was updated to 17th edition cu but the boiler and gas mains pipe were installed after cu was changed and moved.

I have read that there is no need to cross bond boiler pipes but then some people do to be on safe side (maybe habit). I am sure its on this forum somewhere.

I was just going to cross bond the pipes which come from the bottom of boiler but as you can see from the picture the water tank has pipes and was also wondering if these needed bonding too? (if at all).
 
you will generally find that boiler and tank pipes don't need cross bonding simply due to the fact that gas and water pipes are main bonded to the MET and that the boiler pipes are bonded through the metalwork of the boiler and other pipework. this is why you should get a low ohms reading back to the MET.
 
There is no need to "cross bond" the pipes at a gas boiler these days. The requirement to do so used to be a gas regs one. It stems from the days when there was no guarantee that there was continuity between all the pipes at the boiler connections. This guarantee is now in place courtesy of one of the [many] BSs that boilers are designed and built to. Hence the "cross bonding" requirement has been dropped from the gas regs.

Note that there is no similar BS requirement for oil boilers and so in all cases the manufacturers instructions should be consulted to determine if "cross bonding" is required (usually it is).
 
this is totally not answering any of your questions sorry about that.. the others have done a great job.. but that stake!! im guessing a lead pencil stuck in the mud would give a better earth than that.... out of intrest, did you get an Earth loop from it?
 
WRT pic 2: need to know where the meter is. Regs say bond should be on consumers side of meter. From pic it looks like meter must be indoors somewhere.
 
I always thought the meter had to be at the main gas valve, and if outside in a meter box.

Whats stopping someone taking a nice feed to a cooker before that 22mm copper even reaches the meter.
 
this is totally not answering any of your questions sorry about that.. the others have done a great job.. but that stake!! im guessing a lead pencil stuck in the mud would give a better earth than that.... out of intrest, did you get an Earth loop from it?

I am going to get, sorry insist my brother gets the certificate from the company who done it and question the earth rod as this was also moved from the other side of the building AND its not been renewed just simply moved around the side to where it is in the picture now.

What lines should I suggest my brother to say when he calls them, ie reg numbers etc. I have asked him to get the certificate as he should have one especially as its well over 6 months approx that the consumer unit was changed and earth rod moved. The earth rod was also originally in the ground the way it is in picture prior to it being moved.
 
Cross bonding - even though not needed under the 17th the manufacturers instructions have to be followed, and alot still want cross bonding.
 
WRT pic 2: need to know where the meter is. Regs say bond should be on consumers side of meter. From pic it looks like meter must be indoors somewhere.

Now you have said this - I am thinking that where the main gas pipe is on the right hand side of the picture - I am wondering if on the inside of that part of the wall the meter maybe there BUT I just wonder if when the builder changed it into a wet room and electrician moved the consumer unit out of the room to new location (away from the wet room) I am wondering if the gas meter has been kept there and boxed in from inside with a fake wall then tiled over??

I wont know until I speak to brother over weekend or beginning of next week.

The plot thickens!!!!
 
I do hope it wasnt boxed in as have found this info:

Re: Gas meter accessibility
you should be able to:-
1. turn off the gas fully if any leak, with out the use of any tools, other than gas meter tri key
2. Read the meter
3. be able to remove the meter and or regulator
4. boxing, vented to prevent the build up of gas etc.
5. no food or flammable items stored in the cupboard

there are others but thats your main ones

 
I always thought the meter had to be at the main gas valve, and if outside in a meter box.

Whats stopping someone taking a nice feed to a cooker before that 22mm copper even reaches the meter.

Such a thing would never cross my mind. I’ve already been accused of being a pikey once today!

(Nice gas fire in the lounge, gas hob all running on free fuel)!
 
another thought that has just occurred to me. if the CU has been moved, what tails have been fitted, how are they run, are the over 3metres in length ( fused isolator required ).
 
another thought that has just occurred to me. if the CU has been moved, what tails have been fitted, how are they run, are the over 3metres in length ( fused isolator required ).


Off the top of my head they are 25mm tails and just a guess from where the old cu was to new cu I would say they were 3m borderline - without measuring exact.
 
Looking at the gas set up the meter is probably 20’ from the head.

Now where are my live line taps?
 

Reply to the thread, titled "Main Bonding and Cross Bonding question?" which is posted in Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations on Electricians Forums.

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