Main eath bonding

[Geordie Spark]

Your logic defeats me I'm afraid. Why should a radiator be bonded?

For the same reason a metal window frame should be bonded?? :uhoh2:

 

[Engineer54]

I really can't see the big problem here, i've already suggested that you cut a trap in the floorboard above the the bonding connection. This can be screwed back down in place, ...maybe never to be lifted again during your time at the house, ...but it's there ready and waiting if access is ever needed in the future!! lol!!

 

[Geordie Spark]

I really can't see the big problem here, i've already suggested that you cut a trap in the floorboard above the the bonding connection. This can be screwed back down in place, ...maybe never to be lifted again during your time at the house, ...but it's there ready and waiting if access is ever needed in the future!! lol!!

..... or he could secure it shut with lever operated bolts ...... :hanged:

 

[somersetsparks]

Am I missing something here, I think the OP says HIS stop tap is at the back of the house, Would it not be more sensible just to bond it after his stop tap? Rather the under the floor on the water boards (presumably) pipework?

 

[Guest55]

Am I missing something here, I think the OP says HIS stop tap is at the back of the house, Would it not be more sensible just to bond it after his stop tap? Rather the under the floor on the water boards (presumably) pipework?

dont confuse things with clear thinking , its only monday.
;-)

 

[Guest55]

following from somerset.....
if the only accessable point to the water mains is 10 metres away from where it enters the building well just bond it there !
REMOVED the 600mm rule if its a pain.
;-)

 

[somersetsparks]

following from somerset.....
if the only accessable point to the water mains is 10 metres away from where it enters the building well just bond it there !
f*** the 600mm rule if its a pain.
;-)

Aye, I would bond it wherever accessable, However from what I have read the OP says his stop tap and meter is at the back of the property, therefore I would say the proper place to bond would be there, as this is the start of his pipework, the bit under the floor probably is mains pipework as he says it tees of for upstairs flat.

 

[Octopus]

Aye, I would bond it wherever accessable, However from what I have read the OP says his stop tap and meter is at the back of the property, therefore I would say the proper place to bond would be there, as this is the start of his pipework, the bit under the floor probably is mains pipework as he says it tees of for upstairs flat.

If the OP was a spark he could decide but as he isn't maybe he should get one round to confirm what's best and install it with the new cu?

 

[somersetsparks]

If the OP was a spark he could decide but as he isn't maybe he should get one round to confirm what's best and install it with the new cu?

Ahh right shows you how much I read it then before spouting righteous comments on 'the way I would do it"

Cheers Murdoch,
OP - there is probably a spark local to you on here

 

[twist]

Maybe a spark could advise but this is work I can do as I want the basement area for storage I could bond there, close to the outside earth, the electric meter and the gas entry. Or I could run 15m to the rear stop cock and meter, which probably is very much further from being buried in earth. I though earth impedance might have been measured instead of having to visually inspect the condition of the pipe-cable connection. I'd be suspicious of the whole length of cable and what might have happened to it if I couldn't run a test, if I wanted be scientifically sceptical about the situation.

 

[Octopus]

Maybe a spark could advise but this is work I can do as I want the basement area for storage I could bond there, close to the outside earth, the electric meter and the gas entry. Or I could run 15m to the rear stop cock and meter, which probably is very much further from being buried in earth. I though earth impedance might have been measured instead of having to visually inspect the condition of the pipe-cable connection. I'd be suspicious of the whole length of cable and what might have happened to it if I couldn't run a test, if I wanted be scientifically sceptical about the situation.

Some people just don't want to take the point do they.

get a spark to do your CU and bonding at the same time, with a cert and notification then you'll have piece of mind.

 

[twist]

No offence, but I don't take the point. I'm thinking I don't need a new CU and that in any case I can save £100 doing the bonding myself.

What I am unsure of is
(a) what earth system I have, being a big, central, road I'd expect TN-C-S.
(b) how the adequacy of bonding is measured.
(c) why I'd bother.

 

[Plonker 3]

No offence, but I don't take the point. I'm thinking I don't need a new CU and that in any case I can save £100 doing the bonding myself.

What I am unsure of is
(a) what earth system I have, being a big, central, road I'd expect TN-C-S. Why?
(b) how the adequacy of bonding is measured. Look it up in the latest version of BS7671
(c) why I'd bother.

Answered

 

[Octopus]

The OP reminds me of the EU. Ask a question, again and again until you get the answer he wants!

 

[twist]

Just free loading on advice here, BS7671 costs.
The art of free loading on the internet is to attain information from several independent sources, if the agree it is more likely to be correct. If they can reference the material this can be proved. If the standards are not freely available avenues of enquiry slam their door in your face.

If I can elicit more information by refining the original question then I will do that rather than start a new thread. Agree that I am starting to sound pedantic.